BKFW4271MT0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks

very easy, just put in the 2 screws and it was fixed..

Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.

You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!

Removed retaining band around door boot and prized-off boot on left side to access door lock - simple screw driver replacement job. Deleted last error code. BUT - washer worked again for several days, and now code E43 is back and won't spin - problem is intermittent - so suspect it is NOT the door lock, but a wiring or control board problem. Ongoing.

Take a deep breath and say, "I can do this. I will not pay well over $100 for someone else to come and do it."! Identifying part easy, mail very quick, web instructions clear, took out two screws, slipped out old part, put in new one, replace screws. I loved every minute of it and it cost $16.20 (part and shipping). Thanks, Part Select!

Removed two screws on the back of the washer top to release the top on the washer. Slid the top off and removed it. Opened washer door and removed two screws securing the door lock assembly to the washer frame. Reached in from the top of the washer to get the door lock assembly. Unplugged the old door lock assembly in three places and plugged the new assembly in in the same three places. Placed the new assembly in the same place as the old one and secured it to the washer frame with the same two screws located on the inside of the door. Replaced washer top and secured two screws at the top back edge of the washer... Tried the spin mode and everything worked great!!!

I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

Watched your supplied video on how to repair. I did not want to break the washer door sealas described on the video. I removed the two screw on the back of washer that held the top and then slid the top off. I moved the two screws securing the switch at the exterior door. I changed the door lock and switch assembly through the top by moving the connectors one at a time from the old assembly to the new. Replaced the screws to complete. I then changed the door strike by removing the two screws and replacing the new strike. Job complete and washer works fine saving us $200.00. Thank you ever so much PartSelect.com.

I am a 64 year old female that had never attempted to fix anything. This was my 1st attempt at fixing something. It took longer to look for phillips screwdriver than it took took to repair it. Thank you so much for instructions.

Simple removed the screws from the door, did this the night I broke the glass. Gently pryed the inside of the door apart from the front of the door panel. Lined up the arrows on the edge of the new glass panel with the inside of the front door panel and placed the inside plastic door panel back on, to hold the glass panel in place. Replaced screws. Everything worked great! Easy, affordable fix!!

Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!

This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.

The front loading washer door was wobbely so I took it apart as per wife request. Hinge looked fine, bushings were fine so I started to put it back together... then the glass slipped out and to the ground. Take the time to remove the door hinge and assemble on a flat surface, then place the whole assemble back on the washer machine. Don't try to take door apart while still attached to machine. Try it you will understand and then you will be buying a new glass front.

Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.