BKFW4271MT0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

put new part did reset on main controles

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.

There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!

removed top of washer then removed the screws that held the lock in place. only hard part was the lack of room to slide my hand down to get the lock from inside the washer,and put the new one in. managed to find a tech sheet in the washer to put the washer in a "service mode" that is where i could make the washer do a final spin.but it still gave me a code that the door lock was not working properly.(even though it still locked)replaced the lock with a new one and the code disappeared and did a full final spin.. thanks guys

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

The end of the door strike had broken off in the lock. The door strike itself went on in just a few minutes. The time consuming part was getting the piece that had broken off out. After trying with tweezers to get it out, we took the lock off the machine and finally got it out. So....if the door strike looks damaged or isn't shutting properly, replace it before it breaks off inside the lock. We were pleased with how quickly it came. We ordered it Sunday evening and it came Tuesday morning.

First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

with a code it gave me i was able to determeine it was the door lock switch it was so easy it was unbelievable

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!