FA6191 Amana Washer - Instructions

Made sure I had the right part. Inlet Valve looked just like the one on the website. Unpluged washer. Removed screws and water hoses. Disconnected wires from old Inlet valve and reconnected to new Valve. Disconnected water line from Inlet valve to washer tub. Reconnected water lines. Ran a test cycle. Works great. Wife very happy. Therefore, so am I.

I removed the front of the washer then lifted the top up and swiveled it to the right. The solenoid is located in the back left. I remove the solenoid retaining screws from the the back of the washer, pulled the wires form the connectors on the top and bottom solenoids (hot and cold) and removed the defective valve. The new unit fit exactly! the total time to replace the solenoid valve was 25 minutes.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

Unplug washing machine.
Disconnect water supply hoses.
Remove valve service panel, 1 screw.
Remove valve from panel with wires attached. 2 screws.
Remove water outlet hose from old valve.
Mount new valve to panel. 2 screws.
Attach water outlet to valve.
Move wires from old valve to new valve.
Dress wires.
Reinstall valve service panel, 1 screw.
Install new wire braded supply hoses.
Done. Hope to get another 20 years of service.

First I remove the hot & cold water hoses using an adjustable wrench. I then unscrew the panel that holds the water inlet valve using a nut driver. I then carefully pull out the panel, moving the harness wires out of the way, so that I can loosen the clamp holding the inside rubber tube. I remove the old water inlet valve from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then put the new one in. I then reconnect the rubber tube and tighten the clamp. I then screw back the panel and reconnect the hot & cold water hoses. It took me about 20 mins to complete the job.

First let me commend PartSelect for their incredibly fast shipping. Ordered on a Thursday and it arrived on Friday!!

The repair itself was fast and easy and let me add I had never worked on a washing machine before.

1)Unplugged power cord from the wall.
2)Turned off hot and cold water at the shutoff valves.
3)Disconnected water lines leading to the washer.
4)Removed 3 screws holding the bracket assembly on the washer.
5)Removed bracket and pulled water inlet valve out a few inches.
6)Held new inlet valve in same orientation as the old one and then one by one removed the four electrical wires from the old solenoids and attached them to the corresponding place on the new inlet valve.
7)Put inlet valve back in place, attached bracket, and secured it with the 3 screws.
8)Attached water lines to inlet valve and plugged power cord back in.
9)Turned water back on at shutoff valve and checked for leaks.

I washed a load of clothes after the repair and am happy to report that the hot water now runs in as fast as it did when the machine was new. This washer may be 30 years old but I think the old gal's got some life left in her yet.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.