FA6191 Amana Washer - Instructions

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Had to take the back off to replace valve

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

After watching the video on PartSelect, I ordered the part and received it the next day! The hoses involved were over 24 years old and is the only reason it took longer than about 10 minutes. The hot water hose was dificult to remove. Once I removed the hose, the old water inlet valve was replaced with the new valve within minutes...quick as per the video. The washer is back and was down for less than 1 full day.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

Repair was pretty simple, as I was able to access the valve from the rear of the washer without having to remove any large panels. All I had to do was disconnect the water supply hoses, and remove a small cover at the rear of the washer (the valve is mounted to this cover). Cleaning the electrical connectors, which were lightly corroded, took longer than anything else. Replacing the valve with the new one was just a matter of making sure the electrical connections, and the hot and cold water supply hoses were attached in the same places as the old installation. There is also a water outlet nipple on the top of the valve which had to be connected to the inlet hose, and I replaced the old clamp with a new one, which I believe is always a good idea. Two screws attach the valve to the cover, and two more screws attach the cover/valve assembly to the washer.

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.