WET4124HW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Popped out the old lent trap & popped in the new one..and walla perfect repair..

It was very easy to install the new parts successfully thanku parts select I will always keep using your business the representative was so helpful and understanding my problem I wish I could remember his name he was outstanding and a 100 thumbs up to him

Removed old assemblies manually and replaced with new. Very easy and the parts fit perfectly!

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Unplugged stove . Removed floor of oven . Easy . Removed the ignitor ,near back of stove under removed floor . .Left it in place to enable locating where wire came through back of stove . Pulled the stove away from wall . Removed back panel of stove . followed ignitor wire to its plug in position . Returned to the front of stove . Inserted new ignitor wire through back wall of stove . Went behind stove , pulled wire through enough to plug new ignitor into proper position . Put back panel onto stove . Pushed stove back against wall . Went back into oven to screw new ignitor into place . Replaced oven floor panels . Put cooking racks back in . Wife proceeded to bake once again .

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

Unplugged dryer, unscrewed back, and replaced fuse. Easy as 123. Video showed what to do step by step! I am not a handy man, just a woman trying to be money5 smart. Anyone could do this and save on home repairs.

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

I guess you could say I went through the process of elemanation, first I replased the thermostat,removed 2 screws pulled off 3 wired with a pair of pliers put them on the new one, still no hot air so I replaced the fuse, took out 1 screw removed 2 wires and placed them on the new fuse, still no hot air, finally I replaced the thermal cut-off switch and WOW that was it hot air was blowing again, the process was very easy I ordered everything from parts slect and they were here the next day, only had to take the back off the dryer with a nut wrench, locate the thernastat, fuse and thermal cut-off which was just above the heating coil I removed 1 screw pulled off 2 wires and place them on the new one. very easy and the repair storys really helped locating the problem

So I opened the back up, and looked down the flame shoot and I could see that the igniter was never glowing red. (You can actually see the red glow of the igniter when its working right, then you here the solonoid click and flame. But again all this when its working correctly.) So anyway, no heat no glowing red.

I took the voltmeter out, grounded 1 lead and just followed the voltage (using the schematic provided), through the switches, yada yada trying to trace how far it got.

Voltage got to 1 side of thermal fuse, but not to other side. Bingo. Disconnected fuse and did continuity check - open. All of this took diagnosing took 1/2 hour to hour. Not really counting toward fix. Ordered the part at parts select. Put a jumper over the fuse so that clothes could still be dried (probably not recommended but it works). Part arrived in 2 days. Didn't even put the back panel on.

The part is right on the back. 1 screw, 2 space terminals. Takes all of 3 minutes to replace. Then another 5 minutes to put the back panel on and vent hose back on. Most of that is because you are working in a cramped space. (I don't have the biggest laundry room.)

Can't beat parts select!

Parts select + a little know how, saved me about $400.

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

removed cover then pulled wires with a plier, unscrewed the fuse and installed new fuse then put back cover plugged in power cord, fired dyer and run dryer for 2 minutes and felt warm air coming out of the exhaust.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).