MLE19PNDYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle

Removed four screws from the door hinges and front panel. Removed the front panel by pulling forward from the top and found two screws. The part does not come with screws which are #10 x 1 and 1/4" long hex head sheet metal screws. I believe that the screw size is critical as the part may break loose again if the screws width is too large or small for the predrilled holes in the baffle. One set of holes in the drum had slotted screw holes which would allow for installing the baffle with the screws partially installed in the baffle. I would recommend washers for that installation. Check all three baffles to ensure that all screws are tight.

Working from back of machine, slip old belt off drum pulley. Loosen 1/2" nut to remove drive motor from outer drum assembly. Work motor toward front of machine, while holding carefully, to slip out of old isolators. Remove worn isolators. Replace with new isolators (lip towards front of machine). Re-install motor with the nut/washer all the way up against the stop for the least amount of pressure possible on belt tension..tighten bolt. (Believe me.. when you try to install the belt, it will still seem like the belt is not the right size and way too tight.).. It is, however, the correct belt.
Have a zip-tie ready.
Engage the new belt on the motor shaft pulley. The belt grooves should line up with the motor shaft grooves towards the end of the shaft. Grip the drum pulley and rotate counterclockwise while guiding the belt onto the pulley. At about 12 O'Clock, zip-tie the belt to the pulley.. then rotate ccw until installed.. (about 6 O'Clock). Snip off the zip-tie and your ready to go.

Followed a video

The motor isolators went in with no problem ,but the drive belt went on very tight , your how to video shows how. Easy the belt went on , when I called your store I was told that is the only size belt for the machine model mah5500bww,
Thank you Bill

after cutting my hand I installed masking tape around the opening on the back of the washer. All went well after that

Pretty straight forward. After disconnecting the power. Remove the back panel, locate the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses [some water will still be in the hoses, have towels and dry vac ready] Remove protective plastic from the top of the pump and remove the electrical connection reassembled with new drain pump.

I followed the instruction of using a tie strap to secure belt to drive pulley and turn pulley to place belt on pulley. Worked great. Done in no time.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Replaced the motor with a new one from partselect per the YouTube video. Had a problem with delivery of the motor. I paid for next day delivery. FedEx picked it up and it made it to the first stop, Indianapolis ok and then stopped. After a week went by I ordered a second one. That one came as promised + 1 day so I’m satisfied. The telephone people were very well spoken and attentive to my discomfort and again I’m satisfied. The motor was at least 25% cheaper than if I bought it from Maytag so the savings is significant, about $50.

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case. . . Pretty easy job

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.