GLEH1642DS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Went on line to your site , found part, read how easy it was for others to repair. So ordered part and replaced myself. I am a woman who's husband is not handy fixing things and it took me no time at all to remove and replace part. Thanks to others who shared how they did in this situation.Much cheaper to repair yourself. You can do it!!

Great advice on your site.
Repairman "found bad motor control board" and gave me an estimate of $316.00 to repair. I figured that the $80 gamble was worth a shot. Took the top screws off, slid the top back and in less than 15 min. I had a fully functioning washer. Thank you.

Removed the entire front cover of the washing machine and dicoonected the springs that support the tub. Left the tub down and disconnected the struts and unhooked all the wiring and pulled complete tub out of machine. Removed all the bolts around the tub shell and split the tub shell. Remover the motor from the sheel to make it lighter to work on, removed the pulley on the drum shaft and pulled the drum out of the shell. Found that the cast alluminum spider was weakened by corrosion and this caused the spider to break. The spider itself should be able to be purchased seperately because the stainless steel drum was okay and could have been reused. The biggets problem I had was getting the tub back in the washing machine and getting it suspended by the springs again. I used a 6 x6 block and a 2 x 6 board to lift the tub up in the air to get the tub springs hooked back up. This took 2 people to accomplished. After the tub was suspended on the springs the rest was easy.

I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson

took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

I read the input of others who had this problem with this washer and how they had replaced the door lock and switch assembly. I figured it was worth the $70-$80 part versus the $540 repair or purchasing a new machine. I was really happy with the machine until this problem occurred.
When I got the new part.....I unplugged the machine. Took out two screws in the back of the top panel. Removed the top of the machine. Took out two screws in the front of the machine that hold the door lock ans switch assembly into place. I unplugged the three wires from the old part (be careful not to drop the old or new part....if you choose to do this by reaching in from the top like I did for this repair.....easier than removing the entire front of the machine.)
I plugged the three wires into the new part and positioned the new part in the door lock position. Replaced the two screws. Put the cover back on the top and replaced the two screws that hold the top cover on the machine.
I was thrilled when it worked perfectly. What a relief!
Sure glad I looked at this website and tried this! The repairman really didn't know enough about my machine....obviously. I'd like to call him and tell what was really wrong so next time he'll know.

Removed the the two screws holding access panel on the bottom front. Shocks use two plastic retaining pins on each shock. Used a screwdriver to push down on the locking tab on the plastic retaining pin ant pushed out. One of the pins is behind the water pump and a bit harder to access. I used a socket with an extension to push it out. installed new shocks with old pins and was back in business. Shocks go in a certain way so be sure to look at the instructions that come with the replacement shocks. Note: the replacment shocks that came don't look anything like the originals. Originals looked more like an automotive shock. Also as both shocks were broken, I ordered two, not knowing that they come two to a package. When you order that is not clear. So now I have an extra set, which might not be bad to have on hand. Kit also comes with an extra pin in case you break one.

First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

First I turned off the breaker to the washer.

Then I removed the drain pump motor, saw that it was broken, and ordered a new one with expedited shipping. It was delivered about 36 hours later.

I should have used my wet/dry vac to suck out all of the water remaining in the drain lines. Because I didn't, nasty water dripped all over my laundry room. Lesson learned!

The part arrived at 2:20. I had to pick up my kids at school at 3pm. I wasn't sure I'd have time, but I tried anyway. I first removed the screws holding the entire pump assembly to the floor of the washer. Then I attempted to remove the clamps holding the three hoses onto the pump / motor assembly. I tried with regular pliers for about 10 minutes and finally realized I needed locking pliers. Mine are missing, but I have a stone mason doing a project at my house. I borrowed his and immediately had the clamps loosened. I slid them back onto the hoses, inserted the pump motor into each hose one by one, and reattached the clamps.

I ran a little water into the washer, checked to see that it didn't leak upon draining, then started a load and left to get my kids from school.

This was a very easy repair. The part was $75 plus about $20 for the expedited delivery. The Sears service call would have been $65 just to walk in the door PLUS whatever they would have charged me for the labor and the part. I am guessing I saved over $200.

The worst part was the gross water remaining in the drain lines. This would have been easily avoided if I'd just taken the time to get the shop vac. Learn from me and don't skip this step!!

disconnected the power cord,removed two screws on lower front edge of machine, removed lower front cover. Got the wet vac ready to suck up the water in the rubber boots when I took the clamps off. Disconnect the pump wires, and two bolts that mounted the pump. wrestled off the boots, and cleaned out the junk in the bottom of the main boot, sucking up water as the boots came off. then reversed the process. Not bad at all. Makes you want to double check for coins so they don't destroy the pump impeller.

this repair was easy, but it was repair #3.
#1: Fix-it guy said the front control board needed replaced. Ordered part from box store. Shoulda come here!
#2: Replaced motor control board. Harder to replace. Shoulda let the new front board run error code first. Again, used brand name supplier. Oops!
#3: Still not spinning. Error code "Door is open" but it's closed.
Remove door lock/switch assy, wires to the front board, and striker. 4 screws, 15 minutes. reached in through the top (did NOT unseat rubber around door).
Plugged wires into door lock. Inserted striker. Using multimeter on "Ohms" tested switch. No continuity=switch not closed.
New switch cost less, arrived faster. thank you Parts Select!

Replaced the old striker with the new one in about 5 minutes. Just needed a phillips screwdriver. Unbelievable how hard it was to find the part at local store...much easier to order from partselect. If I break it again, I will be all set. Part cost $7 vs repairman visit at a cost of at least $200 - - was worth the effort.

after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!