GLEH1642DS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Remove lower front panel. Left shock is easier than right. Push in on the bump on the tip of white pin. Tap out to rear and same with upper. Assure you follow orientation instuctions for new shock absorbers. Now the hard side. Push in the bump on the lower white pin tip and drive back and possibably angle up slightly to get end of shock out. It is up against the side of an aluminum box of some sort. To remove the top pin you need to use a pliers to squeeze hose clamp and separate black tubing from white plastic. Move out of the way to get at pin. Again push bump and drive out pin. Replace new shock bottom first. I tapped the angle down first to start front of pin then, I used a small pry bar and piece of wood to press the pin back into position from the rear against the aluminum box. Now the top. A short hammer is helpful to tap pin in from rear. Be very carefull putting the hoses back together and move the clamp into position. Make sure this is correct. Test washer. Replace front panel. See, you didn't need a new washer yet. Use some of the savings to treat yourself. Watch the video but realize he skips the hard parts.

Pulled the bottom front plate off the washer to inspect. Noticed there are two small shock absorbers (like on a car) that attach from the bottom of the drum frame near the front of the washer, to the bottom of the washer frame. Both of my shocks were broken at the attaching point at the top, where they attach to the drum frame. These shocks are held in place with a nylon lock pin at both ends. All the pins were inserted from the back of the washer. The end of the pin visible from the front was a white plastic pin, about 1/2" diameter with a pointed end and a small tab to keep the pin from backing out. Tab was fairly easy to depress, but pin was not easy to push back for removal. Used a small pair of Vice Grip Pliers to clamp down the tab and provide better leverage to push the pin back. Once the tab was inside the shock mount, used a 1/4" x 6" socket extension (round side) to push the pin the remainder of the way out. There was a box pretty close to the rear side of the washer frame attachment on the right side. Pushed the pin back as far as I could until it contacted the box, then (since one new pin came with the shock kit) used the vice grips to twist the old pin out. Installation was easy after lubricating the pins. Inserted the bottom right pin from the front because of the box. Operated the washer with the panel off to observe the movement of the shocks. While there, heard some noise from the drain pump. Took hose off and there is a square rubber box that serves as a collector for waste water coming from the bottom of the washer. I found a golf tee in mine, that was lightly rubbing against the propeller of the pump (along with 5 quarters). Removed the tee, reconnected all the hoses, everything is quiet and smooth. I got lucky... check your pockets.

This video by Steve Ash was spot on . In our case the white rear support bearing had melted and reformed around the shaft, preventing us from being able to pop the drum in the way described in the video. We used pliers to unscrew the screws on the rear clip from the back of the dryer. The rest of it worked exactly as described in the video. Our model was White-Westinghouse DE600ADD1, which is not a model listed on the PartsSelect website. However the part worked very well. The dryer runs really quite now.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

I have a stackable unit in a small closet. So unlike others, I couldn't remove the top or back panels and did everything from the lower access panel. I followed the video though multiple caveats as mentioned by others: 1. The right shock absorber is a pain b/c of the box sitting behind, which I could not remove (again, dryer stacked on top and no access to the back). I think its nearly impossible to insert the new plastic pin the correct way (I had to bend the old one to get it out), so like others, I put the new one in backwards (and made sure to change the direction of the shock absorber as well). 2. Reinstalling that hose that blocks access to the right shock absorber is not as easy as it looks. if you get it on right away, don't mess around with it. I had great difficulty trying to get it perfect and ultimately could never get it back to its original position. 3. I'd recommend getting a stubby (short handle) hammer to get the old pins out. As mentioned by others, you can also just use your fingers to depress the tab to get them out. After installing the shocks, it solved the problem except for the last 4-5 minutes (high spin speed). I had planned to try to see if the suspension spring was broken, but after running the washer 2 more times, it's now stopped spinning entirely and I'm planning on getting a new washer/dryer (I'm concerned it's now the bearing, possibly b/c i ran the washer 2 more times).

-remove screws on top of dryer -check for clips on side -remove panel under control panel -remove screws (6) I think, holding control panel -disconnect door switch connector -remove 2 more screws holding front -you may have to lift the tub to allow the vent tube to clear for front removal - - Proceed with felt seal portion of repair - - - -GOOD LUCK You may need help.

Took the old one out, put the new one in! (:>}

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

Really ,no repair;just put new lint basket in dryer;took seconds.