CWG3600AAS13 Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

removed 2 screws on element then unpluged it then replaced it with new one easy job

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.

I removed the cover protecting the igniter. I pulled the stove away from the wall to get at the connect for the igniter. I loosened the 2 screws which held the igniter.
Took the new igniter ran the wire to the back to the connection and mounted the igniter with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven to make sure it works and it did. Turned off the oven, replace the cover and pushed the stove back in place. No big Deal!
Your web site was very helpful. Thank you so much!

First I unplugged the range, turned off the gas to the oven and disconnected the gas line from the oven. I pulled the oven out to gain access to the rear of the unit and unplugged the old igniter. Next, I removed the oven door, removed two screws to the floor of the oven and removed it. I then removed the metal covering above the gas component allowing full access to the igniter. I removed two screws from the igniter and removed it. I positioned the new igniter and replaced the two screws. I replaced the covering over the gas component, replaced the oven floor and put the oven door back on. I went to the rear of the unit and plugged in the new igniter. I then reconnected the gas line to the oven range and checked for leaks, No leaks were found and I pushed the oven unit back into place. I pushed the Bake button and the igniter started igniting the oven.

Job completed.

Removed the old igniter, followed the wires. Reversed the process and put it back together. Saved big bucks! Thanks for the quick service.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

First i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the wire out of the hole and disconected the plug. then plug in the new one, put the two screws back in, and checked it to see if it worked,It worked like a new one! So as my reward my wife baked me cookies!

It took all of 10 mins. Open oven door slightly lift to remove.took out shelves and bottom of oven,lift at back to remove.Two screws hold the Igniter, was able to pull the connector into the oven to change. Oven works great!

This is simple for most people - unscrew and remove the bottom oven floor pan. There is the igniter, removed with two screws with a 1/4 nutdriver. However, my problem was that when I unclipped the old igniter, I dropped the over part of the connection, it fell down the hole, through the insulation, to the bottom of the stove where the wiring is. I had to pull out the stove to get to the connection, push it back up the hole to the oven, then install the igniter. My advice: do no lose your grip on the oven wire whatever you do. Otherwise, it was a snap, even for a klutz.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

used screwdriver to replace oven igniter , we are planning to buy a new oven in the future , now we can buy it when I can better afford it. Thank you for you help I'll be back.

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.