CWG3600AAS13 Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

My stove would take forever to preheat and sometimes it wouldn't heat above 175. I order a new igniter, which was located under the drip pan . It took less then ten mins to replace and the stove is working like new.

Changed the igniter

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.

This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!

removed the old defective ingniter and installed new igniter turned on the ove n and wala, it was like brand new.

very easy

Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off.
Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

seamed easy enough. Found the part and it looked identical, However I could not see the connector in the picture because the logo covered that part of the picture. Had to cut the connector off the old igniter and crimp it on to the new ingniter.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

Replaced gas oven ignitor

I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .

Once I got the new Igniter, I unplugged the old igniter and took two bolts out. Then remounted the new igniter and plugged it in. Works like a charm!!

Remove oven floor and bottom drawer
remove 2 1/4-inch screws holding ignitor
remove cover plate behind drawer to access P/J
Disconnect plug remove ignitor and reassemble

Did not have gas smell, but ignition took 6 minutes

First I called a local repair shop and after getting a 325.00 repair estimate I looked up your website and discovered that I could purchase the part for 46.00 dollars and followed the do it yourselfers imput Now thats what I call a savings