CWE5800ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

This was too simple, turned off the power to the oven, undid the two screws, unplugged two wires, plugged wires into the new element, fastened the new screws and turned the power back on. Turned on the oven, what do you know, it works again!

The element did not come with instructions and none were needed.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Removed two screws. Gently pulled old element away from back of oven, exposing two wires. Disconnected the element from wires by pulling the ends apart with hands. Reconnected the wires with new element. LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES! Saved about a hundred bucks!. (Demo on You Tube.)

It was very simple. First thing I did was to go online to youtube and type in the kind of repair I intended to do. There were several short videos showing you how to do the replacement.It was easy and took about 30 to 45 minutes. First thing is shut off the power to the oven. ( Very important). You then need to take out two screws that hold the element in place. At this point, just pull the element toward the front of the oven. You will see some insulation at the hole where the wires come out. Slowly work the element forward until you see the fasteners on the wires ( two wires).Disconnect the fasteners and throw the old element out and put the new one in the oven.Connect the element, push everything back into the hole and screw the element to the back wall. You're done ! I had two wall ovens to fix.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Very easy. Didn't have to replace whole unit

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.