91148365791 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the screws that hold the end caps on. One on top, the other underneath with the door open. Then removed the two screws that hold the cover of the electronic controls and pulled out this panel. Removed the 4 screws that held the clock/oven module. Removed the wires in order with needle nose pliers and connected them to the corresponding connections on the new module. Weren't exactly identical, but with the magnifying glasses (presbyopia) was able to identify the correct label that matched the original connection....replace the screws back in order, started the oven...and cooked the kids a pizza.

The entire element was replaced. Since the oven is proably older than me (about 30 years) the holes did not light up exactly so 2 new holes had to be drilled. It is working great now and I'm happy to find a part that works.

Removed screws holding old element; removed back panel. Attached new element with old screws and replaced panel.

The repair was remarkably simple. Had i a nut driver, it would have been simpler still. Nonetheless, I managed to remove the nuts affixing the element to the back of the oven with a wrench, pulled out the old element, reattached the wires (they slipped in with ease), replaced the element, tightened the nuts and, presto, I was done. I suspect I saved over $100, though would rather my wife not know for fear it will be spent elsewhere;-)

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Removed door from Oven.
removed screws from several components comprising the door and separated pieces.
Removed broken glass.
Prior to putting back together I took advantage of the convenience and used oven cleaner to clean inner portion of door. Installed new glass.
Reassembled door.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

From what I was able to find info on I was to take out 5 screws 3 on top and 2 on the bottom then the inner oven box is suppose to pull out a bit to take the old gasket off and put the new onw on the box was so rusty it would not pull out so I was able to get enough of the box out using a large screwdriver the lip of the gasket tucks behind the box. I ended up using a small screwdriver to work the new gasket behind the oven box. The door now needs new springs the tension on them is not strong enough to pull the door shut the way it should there's still room to push the door into new gasket.

We removed the two very tiny screws that held the plate through which the element was connected to the wiring. It was extremely difficult to do so, because the screws were so tiny. Our socket set did not have such a small attachment, and we had to use an adjustable wrench. Once we accomplished that, we unhooked the old broil element from the wires. At that point, the wires snapped back into the wall. There was almost no slack to pull the wires back out into the oven so that we could hook the new broil element up. It took more than an hour of maneuvering before we were able to get hold of enough of the wires so that we could grab onto each one and hook up the new broil element. One we did that, it was easy to place the broil element back into its brackets.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turned AC off. Removed bracket screws and pulled out ac connections. Removed old element and reilstalled new element and set AC on.

First turn circuit breaker off. Remove two retaining screws, disconnect two connectors at the end of the element, toss old element and reverse the procedure
to install.

I should note that my first order to PartsSelect.com
was made on-line and that I selected the wrong part by comparing the burned-out element to the web site picture. When I received that part, I phoned and quickly corrected my mistake, ordered the correct part and obtained return instructions.

With the correct part in hand, I removed the two screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out a short distance to disconnect the two wires and removed the burned-out element. Reversing this procedure I installed the new bake element and completed the job by checking out the oven heating. The hardest part of all this was reaching over the oven door and stretching to unscrew and screw the necessary screws.

My husband (a retired tool & die maker) easily removed the old bake element after first turning off the circuit. He cleaned up the burned salt that we had used to try to put the "fire" out but finally just shut down the circuit. Then just as easily istalled the new element. Thanks to your quick service, we were only without the use of the oven for a day and a half!