W30400P Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Loosened the contol panel until I was able to get to the Digital Display board.
Removed the three cables and the screws that held the display unit to the control panel.
Reversed the procedure to instll new digital clock display unit.

Turn off power to the stove. Pop off the burner knobs and remove the screws attaching the controls to the front panel. Open the oven door and remove the four screws attaching the panel to the oven frame. The panel slides down giving easy access to the circuit board. Remove the two connectors and the ribbon cable attached to the board. There are small clips on the side of the ribbon cable connector that release the ribbon cable. Unscrew the board and install new board. Reattach the cables, put the panel back in place and attach. Reattach the burner controls to the panel, pop the knobs back on, power the stove back on, put on a pair of sunglasses to view the now blazingly bright display and admire your work.

This is the second clock I have had to put in this unit in about that many years. The first time I disassembled far to many things. This time I knew to only unscrew the front panel and side triangle plates. The process was much faster the second time. I hope this is not a chronic problem though.

Removed screws on face plate, disconnected wires, placed on counter, removed hex head screws. Removed one end of electric type circutry, replaced with new part and reassembled.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

Initially I made a false start by pulling out the stove, which was not necessary. Then dropped control panel by removing the several screws on the bottom of control panel. Removed the three connecting cables by freeing locking mechanisms. (The locks on the ribbon assembly are on both ends of the connector plug). Removal of circuit board then obvious. Installation of new circuit board quick and easy. All displays then worked OK. I added a fiberglass heat shield around the circuit board and time will tell if this worked or was a mistake;
Your troublshooting tips were very helpful.

I am curious how the chap who found capacitor C3 to be defective zeroed in on it without a test harness.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

My husband ( a superior handy man) very easily replaced the glass on the inside of the oven door and further replaced the hinges which had sprung yrs ago when I rested a 30+ lb turkey on the door. He removed the oven door and it was obvious to him how to repair the problem. The oven is back to heating correctly.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

The part came right away!
Removed six screws from above door, than pull knobs off and remove four screws that were under knobs.
Front panel pulls off. Remove display and put back together.
Peice of cake.
Wish all my projects were that easy!

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

cut off power to stove & made sure it was OFF.
removed the few screws on the underside of front cover.
lift cover and un-screw the clock/display
I then removed the wire strip feeds (one has friction tabs that need to be lifted before you pull it.. it's the flat ribbon cable use the butter knife to lift the tabs...easy does it)
put the new clock in and reconect the wires. push the ribbon in and push the tabs.
All done and saved $160.00 bucks