W30400P Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

As described by many others before. Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel for the house. Unscrewed the front panel, disconnected the three connections to the old assembly and unscrewed the assembly.

Cleaned a few pieces then screwed in an connected the new assembly, put it all back together, turned on the power, said a prayer and IT WORKED!

Turned off the breaker. Removed the screws under the front panel and eight screws behind the burner controls (two each). I then slid out the panel and laid it flat on top of the stove. Removed the three connectors. Most difficult was the ribbon connector: Squeeze the clips at each end and slide the top half of the connector up. Then the ribbon slides out (practice on the new part). Only two screws held the assembly in. Reverse the process with the new assembly. Worked great!

Cut of electricity. Opened the oven door and removed some screw that were over the door that let a plate be removed. Then that let the part drop down that was holding the clock. I removed 2 screws that was holding the clock in place, unplugged the 3 connectors that feed the clock, attached the 2 screws back in that held the clock, put the part back up in place, added the plate and was done. Turned the power back on. I was delighted when I saw the clock light on. Easy to install.

I looked at the schematic from PartsSelect, undid the 8 screws and replaced the clock assembly. I probably saved $200 on labor doing it myself. I had the clock repaired in 30 minutes.

I first turned off the circuit breaker for the range. I then I removed the four hex screws from the underside of the panel and then dropped the panel to expose the clock assembly. I then removed the two screws holding it in place, disconnected the cables and removed the old unit. I then reversed the procedure to install the new unit. I next turned on the circuit breaker restoring power to the range. And like magic I once again had light. I know I must have made by Daddy proud. I should have done it sooner. Thank you for making it so easy by sharing the "how to's" with me. It was especially helpful to have the model number.

Once the display became too dim to read, I removed the front panel to determine how to access the piece and to check part numbers so that I could order the proper piece. Once the part arrived, being familiar with the disassembly, it was simple enough to replace the part quickly. The part came out with two screws and the connections were standard electronic multi plug, making the replacement simple. When we turned the power to the unit on, it worked first time.

1. Removed knobs and front panel. Disconnect wiring.
2. Order part and installed. Done

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

My daughter & I followed the instructions in your video and had fun repairing the door. The video showed exactly how to do the repair. I hope I don't need any appliance parts very soon but I will certainly pull up your web site if I do. Thanks for an excellent instruction video.

John - Hot Springs Village, AR

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

The front panel was removed by unscrewing six screws just above the oven door and then four nuts were removed fron the burner assy. using a nut driver. The circuit board with the clock assy was then available. It was then just a matter of removing three cable connectors and a ribbon cable connector and two screws to remove the old clock assy. The reverse was done to install the new clock assy. The whole operation took about 15 minutes.