GI5FSAXVB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt.
Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.

Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

Replaced ice bin complete with wheel. Easy fix and resonable.

Uncurl new gaskets (set out on a table or countertop) and let them get to room temperature so they straighten out. Use hands to pull off old door gaskets. Starting at corners, use hands to push gasket into the groove on the door. Make sure gasket is properly seated all the way around the door. If some part is still wrinkled or bent, carefully use a hairdryer to heat it a bit and smooth it out.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Once I took new gaskets out of carton
and put out on patio to warm up I removed old gaskets pressed in new gaskets which made a great seal
Job was easy and took no skill

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.