BRS62BRBNA00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

I ordered the 2 new drawers, the crisper pan and the meat pan with handle. I took them from the box, wiped them out and slid them right into the spots where my previous drawers were. End of story. This took less than 5 minutes to install. I used the chat feature to inquire as to what number items that I needed to order these 2 drawers, was given the numbers and order the items on line right then. Easy They arrived in record time, like maybe 2 days. They were well packed and arrived in pristine condition.

Old part would not stay in place (broken). Recieved new part and snapped it in to place . No tools needed.

took apart panel from door and removed old part and installed new part.It's difficult if you have big hands. Best if you have someone hold up wire panel while you are installing.

It was great repaired the problem for under $60

Built-in filter was corroded due to age. New filter corrected problem.

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

put new ones in place.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

The part came with minimal instructions .... "use all the parts in the kit". That is it.

took the auger off and baffle replaced the baffle put every thing back together installed back to the freezer tried it out it dont work have to tear into the the motor which works the auger to see if anything else is broke.

(1) Remove the drawer by pulling it open until it catches. Push up gently on the bottom-rear of the drawer to lift it over the stop tabs in the drawer rail, and pull the drawer out completely. Note: You will need to push the refrigerator door gently to the fully open position to remove the drawer all the way. The door will open about 30 degrees further than where it comes to rest on its own when opened.
(2) Remove the shelf by lifting gently on the front and sliding it forward. Once the rear corners of the shelf are beyond the upper lip of the shelf rail, you can lift the shelf out of the rail, and turn it vertical to remove through the fridge door. Note: the glass in the shelf is meant to stay in, but if its old or damaged it may tip out when you turn the shelf on its side. So you may want to tape it in place before removing the shelf.
(3) Install the new shelf by repeating step 2 in reverse.
(4) Reinstall the drawer by repeating step 1 in reverse.

On the bottom of the cover plate are two slots. Insert thin bladed screw driver and pry out gently. Remove electrical connection plate. Remove the old door by removing pin from spring and retaining bracket useing long nose pliers. Install new door kit making sure you use all the parts in the kit. The door buffer is different and the new kit does not require a heater.Install the electrical plate, ice shute and front cover.