RT18DKYXW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

loosened screws holding gasket, removed old gasket, installed new gasket tightening screws as I went from top first. The only problem I encountered was that the door did not fit correctly when I finished tightening the screws. It was tight at the top and open at the bottom (gasket not even touching refrigerator frame). I did not realize until then that the outer metal door is quite flimsy and is only made stiff by the molded plastic interior door liner and shelves. I simply had to loosen the screws I had just tightened, align the door by closing it and then tightening the screws so that the door retained that position.

Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Ok its the garage "adult " Beverage chiller.

Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

most of the time spent on repair was removing the food from freezer compartment other than that removal of a couple screws and disconnecting and reconnecting wires not a huge ordeal

I first unplugged the unit.
Secondly I unscrewed the back panel and removed it.
Third, I unplugged the fan, unscrewed it, removed it, and replaced it with the new fan motor.
I then plugged it to confirm that it worked and then put everything back together.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks

Removed the shelves from the freezer and the brackets holding it along with the covers for the light and plate for the ice maker (we don't have one). Pulled the ground wire from the tab off the port for the ice maker. Removed back plate exposing the fan motor and then the 4 hex screws holding on part #23 of the diagram which the fan motor is mounted to. Flipped it over, unscrewed the 2 hex screws from the fan motor mounting and removed it. Removed and replaced 3 wire connectors on new fan motor. Installed new fan motor and new grommets but used the old screws because the provided screws were larger. Pushed the new fan on to the motor shaft. Reassembled. Half hour most.

I removed all the shelves and the back shelf hanger. Removed two screws on the back plate.Pulled it out.Removed the screws that hold the fan housing. Pulled it out so I could write down the three wires color and location.Unpluged them.Removed the old fan and installed the new one.and put everthing back together.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.