RT18DKYXW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

unplugged refrig.
removed screws on back panel of freezer compartment

removed fan motor cover

removed fan

broke ends off support bracket in accordance with directions

had to pull more of old ground wire out of back of refrigerator to get it to reach ground clip on new fan

plugged all 3 wires into fan motor

replaced covers

every thing works fine now.

part was delivered quite promptly

refrigerator was over 30 years old and a sears model but mfg by whirlpool

unpluged unit, removed 2 panel screws, removed 4 fan screws, disconnected wires, reassembled

I had already removed the old Ice maker, so it was no longer in.

When the new ice maker arrived, I simply pluged it in, replaced the screws that hold it in place and turned the water back on to the ice maker.
It was that easy.

1 Measured new door handle against the existing handle brackets. The handle was longer than the space between the brackets.

2 Cut the handle to length to fit in between the brackets (cut off about 1-1/2").

3 Loosened the top handle bracket. Inserted the handle in the handle brackets.

4 Tightened the top bracket screws down, thereby sandwiching the handle between the top and bottom bracket. Repair Completed.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I removed 1 bottom screw and 2 upper screws useing a 1/4 inch socket nut driver. then useing a flat edge screwdriver i incerted in slot to remove wiring cluster. to install just reverse process. you maye have to cut u-shape slot for water spout to sit in.

Unplugged wire, loosened two screws on top took out lower screw.Lifted the ice maker up and out it came. The wiring that came with the new part was to short so we unplugged ours from the old part and used it:) was really easy and works great now no leaks

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Using the parts list that came with the refrigerator, I ordered the exact replacement part. First I removed the single nut that holds the tray onto the top of the compressor with a standard wrench. Then I carefully removed the pan filled with condensate taking care not to damage the coils. I then inspected the area and wiped off the dirt. I inserted the new evaporator tray carefully into position. The tricky part was starting the nut that secures the pan because of the confined space that I had to work in. Long fingers worked the best. After 3 attempts I was able to start the nut, and then I finished it off by tightening with the wrench. It is best to keep the parts list that comes with your appliances.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.

loosened screws holding gasket, removed old gasket, installed new gasket tightening screws as I went from top first. The only problem I encountered was that the door did not fit correctly when I finished tightening the screws. It was tight at the top and open at the bottom (gasket not even touching refrigerator frame). I did not realize until then that the outer metal door is quite flimsy and is only made stiff by the molded plastic interior door liner and shelves. I simply had to loosen the screws I had just tightened, align the door by closing it and then tightening the screws so that the door retained that position.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!