1068650513 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I put the end caps on the shelf bar and popped them into the slots on the refrigerator door. Very easy.
Good experience ordering from PartSelect. Glad I could make repair with minimal expense.

replaice the end caps with new ones. very easy. happy with partselect.com

A little firm pressure snapped the new parts in place in the door so that the shelf could be replaced.

Forty years ago I serviced air conditioners and all kinds of refrigeration. At that time starting relays were electro mechanical, I hadn’t looked under a refrigerator in a lot of years and was surprised to find out that the new relays were solid state. The defective one had a bunch of broken pieces floating around in the case. I jury rigged a starting cord and confirmed that the compressor would start and looked at running current for thirty or so seconds. I ordered a new relay kit and it worked just right. I’m seventy five years old and it takes me longer to get up off the floor than it took to replace the parts. Your delivery was first rate the parts got here before I finished doing the paint touch-up on the door under the ice maker/water dispenser. Fed ex was easily three to five days faster than the brown truck.

unplugged relay and plugged in

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

I used a socket and ratchet to back out part way the screws holding the seal. There are 4 pieces of metal strips that the screws go through to hold the seal on. Don't remove the screws completely or the plastic panel of the door will fall or come off. Take the new door seal and power it with baby power. This will help make the seal not hang up when you close the door. Now, shake off excess powder outside and then begin to install the seal. Start at the top left or right corner and work across pushing the lip of the seal into the recess of the metal strip. You will want to tighten some of the screws as you go but leave enough looseness to push the seal into the strip's recess. Proceed down each side and the bottom last. I should note that you could remove the door first and you wouldn't have to stand on your head to screw in the bottom of the seal.

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

Took the old fan out and put the new fan in.