59655653500 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the YouTube video linked to the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor I purchased. The repair was just as easy as the technician in the video said it would be. Removed the back panel, remove the clamp, worked the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor off the electrical prongs and replace it with the new one. After I reassemble the refrigerator, it was fully operational. Very easy to do and only required a few tools.

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

While investigating problem (at 11:30PM of course) I saw the overload burst into flames. Problem Identified! Easily found and ordered part. Next day delivery. Exact same part easily plugged in. Total refrigerator down time was less than 40 hrs.

Thanks,
Terry

Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.

I removed the front cover--just popped off with no trouble. Removed 2 screws at the bottom. Slid the broken part out and put the new one in place. Put in the two screws, replaced the fron cover AND Done!!!
BTW I am a 65 year old woman and the icemaker is like new.

I removed the door dispencer cover and located the control board. I unpluged the wire connector and water dispence switch, laid down the cover and removed the control board. I snapped in the ned board, reconnected the wire terminal and put the dispencer cover back on the door.

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

The other guy described it perfectly so all I can add is that this repair was as simple as they come. Don't hesitate.

1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com
2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it)
3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door
4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door
5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator.
6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off
7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on
8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside
9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute
10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door
11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time)
12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door
13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts)
14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge
15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything
16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute
17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line
18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing
19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing
20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door
21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place
22 - Plug in the refrigerator
23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done

Removed pop off plate inside top of refrig.
Removed 2 screws holding cover.
Removed cover and styrofoam piece
Unplugged wiring
Removed old part
Transferred wiring to new part
Replaced all parts.

Removed damper vent by hand and then unscrewed 2 visible screws that hold Damper Control Unit in place. After removing screws, the damper control unit is easy to remove by unplugging 2 electrical connectors by hand and connecting new unit the same way. Screw the panel and snap the vent back in place and you're done!! Piece of pie, easy as cake...Ha! Ha!

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,