59669282001 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

No tools required, but you must be careful not to shove or jam this kick plate into place as it is a plastic part and not really very sturdy. This is the second time I have replaced the kick plate and PartSelect has always been knowledgeable, polite, and helpful
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Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

In less than 1 minute I put the crisper glass in place. I wa overwhelmed at the speed in which I received this part. It was ordered on monday evening and I received it on wednesday morning. PartSelect was a life saver as the repair was just day before Christmas.

made a call and I was taken care of immediately

remove two crispers and glass top . Replace rail.
Note
This is 3rd time this part in about 5 years has needed replcement. If there is a next time I would expect a "freebe". Service is great and replacement rail came in jig time.

The repair was very simple, just put the parts in place. We were very please with the quick shipment and the good prices.

I noticed the coils very dusty dirty, tried brushing it clean, ended up blowing it clean. I noticed the condenser fan motor was never turning, I had power, so I ordered a new one. I actual received the evaporator motor, so I had to order the correct one. After changing it, and it started blowing right away. But my refrigerator is still warm. I do not know where the evaporator blower motor is located. I cannot make out from the diagram breakdown. HELP

First off, I learned from YTube how to go about figuring out what might be wrong & how to fix it. I watched numerous videos and narrowed it down to the damper as the part to be replaced. I learned how to use the Jazz Board in the fridge to test components & verified the damper wasn't getting signal to open/close. I removed the old damper & put in the new one following what I had seen on the videos. I found a video that had the same type of damper assembly as my fridge & used it to show me how to remove & replace the damper. This was the 2nd part I had to replace to get my fridge up & working. I spent a total of 224.00 on parts and now the fridge is quieter than it's been in years. Finally, if a 66 year old woman can do this, so can you. Just watch YTube & also PartsSelect also has videos also.