25354363401 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

I followed the past suggestions and I opened the parts list to understand what was where. Caution when removing the face plate. The flat white connector pulls out easierly. It can be plugged back in after. I have big hands so it was hard to connect the water back to the unit. Other wise it went ok.
OH , make sure to unplug the refrigirator. I touch the control board and got snapped.

Removed Water drip tray, Then removed (3) screws holding the cover in place. Removed (3) more screws holding the circuit board in place. pulled out ribbon cable from the circuit board which is connected to cover, and put aside.
Tried to remove screws holding actuator in place, but it was a bit tight,,wish i would have tried to un-plug the connector on the left side first, but did not, i instead removed the water tube to gain better access,,,,replacing actuator was easy, re-attaching water tube was not simple at all,, but if you do end up pulling it out,,,do not waste time trying to pull it back thru, it is not nessasary, and impossible to do,,the end is tapered, and makes a pressure seal, so it will not leak,,,re-attached screws, ribbon cable, cover, and drip tray,,and done.

I removed the filter bypass from the box. I opened the refrigerator door. I put the filter bypass in the space where the filter was located. I closed the refrigerator door. I opened the freezer door. I turned on the ice maker. It worked.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

pried bottom plastic plate to expose two screws. popped frame of water/ice dispenser. loosened four tiny screws to remove mother board access acuator for replacement. snapped off two cable wires attached to the actuator and replaced it with the new actuator. reversed process and job completed in 35 minutes.