36358777894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Vacuumed the area around the compressor, removed the PTC relay switch cover, pried the broken relay switch off the unit with a screw driver and replaced with the new relay switch. Replaced the backing of the refrigerator and tested, within minutes the work was confirmed.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

I removed the door from the fridge by taking off the screws that held the top plate on. I then removed the old broken cam from the door and the old hinge pin on the fridge and replaced them with new parts. I then put the door back on, screwed the top plate of the door into the top of the fridge, and with a few minor alignment adjustments with the freezer door, I was done.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.

1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.

p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.

All i had to do was pop off the front trim, remove 4 small screws, unplug two plugs and replace the board.

It took me a grand total of 9 minutes to get the job done.

Way cheaper than having a repair man come to the house twice, once to diagnose, and once to replace the board he would have ordered and marked up.