JSD2789HEW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

Removed broken dairy door (no screws or any tools were used) and replaced with new one purchased from partselect. It took me less than a minute to do :) thanks!

Used the flat head screw driver for leveage to pop the door off. Replaced the chill door by placing at an angle and snapping it into place. Works perfectly!

No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes

Maytag wide by side refrigerators tend to eat these parts about once a year, and this is my third assy so the replacement went very fast. When we used the Maytag warranty they replaced this part about 6 times, after they exchanged the refrigerator. No major disassembly is required, drop the plastic after removing a few screws, plug in the assy, and you are good to go, no more frozen food in the refer. The only tricky part is getting the clips to release so you can slide the plastic cover forward, but after a while they break off and it is easier to remove.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

I removed the broken ice bucket support enclosure using the nut driver and screw driver. The new part had to have the ice bucket motor attached. The metal piece that attaches to the motor shaft had to first be removed, which was somewhat difficult (careful! the thread is reversed). The motor and spring assebly had to be re-attached to the new ice bucket support enclosure piece.
This repair was relatively easy.

Needed special "Torques" tool to remove front panel from refrigerator door not a problem, however, some folks may not have this type of tool. Replaced rubber actuator pad and DID NOT replace limit switch. Old pad was worn out & wouldn't reset. Replaced water outlet valve this fixed the water flow to the ice maker. Had to guess if this was the problem. I guessed right as the water flow to the door water point was working but the ice maker water flow was not. I also used a special tube cutter (I had one) to cut the water tubes to get a clean cut. Most of the time was spent on vacuuming the underside of the frig. Bottom line the ice maker works again!

First off, We have an extended warranty however, they said it was not coverered since it did not affect the function of the refrigerator (except that we lost refrigerator space and could no longer use that section of the fridge!!!) They said it was cosmetic!! After having a repair person come out and tell for the part and repair it would be $217.00.
I then got on line and looked up the part which with shipping cost us 37.00. My husband installed the part in no time.
Word of advice: make sure when you purchase warranties that you check the fine print ,because there are all different levels of warranty.

I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.

I removed the cover and unplugged the heater unit and thermostat. I then checked the resistance of the unit. The unit was bad. I then replaced the unit.
This was a very simple repair.

I used a nutdriver to unscrew the four bold, I disconnect the defrost heater assembly, I used boil water to unfreeze where the heater assembly hook, then I unclip the bottom I remove it and slide the new one the same way and replaace those two covers and connect the fridge back and it work like a charm. Thanks again Partselect. I save a bundle money and waiting time....

1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit.
2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall.
3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube.
4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side.
5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires
6. reverese to reinstall
* Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.