JSD2789HEW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the broken ice bucket support enclosure using the nut driver and screw driver. The new part had to have the ice bucket motor attached. The metal piece that attaches to the motor shaft had to first be removed, which was somewhat difficult (careful! the thread is reversed). The motor and spring assebly had to be re-attached to the new ice bucket support enclosure piece.
This repair was relatively easy.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit.
2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall.
3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube.
4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side.
5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires
6. reverese to reinstall
* Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.

I used a nutdriver to unscrew the four bold, I disconnect the defrost heater assembly, I used boil water to unfreeze where the heater assembly hook, then I unclip the bottom I remove it and slide the new one the same way and replaace those two covers and connect the fridge back and it work like a charm. Thanks again Partselect. I save a bundle money and waiting time....

I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.

Needed special "Torques" tool to remove front panel from refrigerator door not a problem, however, some folks may not have this type of tool. Replaced rubber actuator pad and DID NOT replace limit switch. Old pad was worn out & wouldn't reset. Replaced water outlet valve this fixed the water flow to the ice maker. Had to guess if this was the problem. I guessed right as the water flow to the door water point was working but the ice maker water flow was not. I also used a special tube cutter (I had one) to cut the water tubes to get a clean cut. Most of the time was spent on vacuuming the underside of the frig. Bottom line the ice maker works again!

I removed the cover and unplugged the heater unit and thermostat. I then checked the resistance of the unit. The unit was bad. I then replaced the unit.
This was a very simple repair.

replaced water valve, Still not working.

Take off cover plate. two screws. Take out three screws holding the bracket. Exchange the parts from old bracket to the new bracket. reinstall the bracket and cover.

Viewed the repair video. Removed covering. Replaced limit switch, control board, and solenoid. Very easy repair!

Replaced the defrost heater and thermostat assembly.

I removed the old ice maker and during the short disassembly noticed a burned out connection to the heater element that allows the ice to be broken free of the tray and dumped into the bin. Part Select had a new unit to me next day! I had watched their short install video, and read some of the user comments, already. Re-installing the new unit was a snap, and just as the video had described except for the mount bracket. The only thing that concerned me was that the new unit did not immediately do anything. I began to investigate and found that the flexible water "chute" connection had ice in it! I unplugged the refer, unscrewed the water filter and drained it. I disconnected the water feed on the outside back of the unit as well to make sure water could flow easily to the ice maker port. I filled the water filter with boiling hot water and replaced it, I plugged in the refer, and reprogrammed the date and time. Several hours later I checked the ice maker and it was -- making ice!

First turned off the water and unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the old ice maker by first removing the side cover plate and then next removed the ice level detector. Remove the screws that hold the ice maker in place and rotating it somewhat soas to gain access to the wires and then unplugged them. Next I had to modify the way the water comes into the new icemaker by adapting a CPVC street ell to fit into the hole on the side and then hook up the water supply. Installation is just the reverse of removal.

1. Unplug refrigerator and remove fountain drip tray.
2. Remove the two #15 torx head screws that were covered by the drip tray.
3. Pull the bottom of the trim panel out and push up to remove panel and then unplug switch circuit board connector..
4.Remove the three screws (same size as the other two) and then remove the switch, ice door, etc assembly and unplug the connector.
5. Aside. At this time I extended the water hose which has been short since new. Used a couple of inches of 1/4 inch plastic tube. Heated it with boiling water and slipped it over the existing tube to extend it about 1/2 inch. Now the water flows in a uniform predictable stream.
6.Remove the tiny phillips screw holding the switch in place.
7.Remove and replace the old switch and actuator pad and screw. Check operation of switch. I lubricated the surface between the switch actuator bar and the rubber with a little plastilube(white) grease. Probably highly optional.
8.Replace and replug the assembley. Tuck the actuator pad around the edges if needed. Remember to turn the screws CCW until they fall into the old threads and then tighten them until snug.
9.Plug in and mount trim and connect refrigerator.

removed one holding screw (left side center}, used pliers to hold motor shaft so I could unscrew auger drive fork (counter clockwise), then unscrew two screws for ice bucket door magnet push lever, unscrew four screws to auger motor and toss damaged ice bucket support enclosure and don't forget to screw in that one holding screw on lower left side .. then remount both components onto new thin plastic ice bucket support enclosure ... reassemble remaining ice bucket right side wall and slide in main ice bucket with auger. Not a big fix, but part & shipping was just short of $80 ..