CSM22GRBEWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Replace the old water valve (wr57x11) with the new one (wr57x10051: make sure you unplug the 110 ac power . And close the water come to the refrig. First 1. Open the paper panel on the back with screw driver. 2 Use a small adj. Wrench to take the old valve of. 3. Label the connector and its terminals in a proper number to identify their connector. 4. Unscrew 2 water hoses - one to the drinking one to the ice maker. They are in diff. Sizes - make sure to mark where the hoses connected in case you need to use it again. 5. Cut of the thread section on the hose end - you do not need thread any more on the new water valve. 6. Make sure the new valve is in the same position as the old one. Then plug the water hoses to the valve - and connector terminals. There are 2 new terminal adapter in your new package. These new adapter will be fit to the old hardness for connecting to the new valve. 7. Secure the valve onto the refig frame then plug in the water hose to make sure no leak at the valve. The new valve has new type of self-lock plug ( not thread ) to the 2 water hoses. Make sure to press hard so the hoses are fit in to these new water . Valves. Turn on the water and power on on the refrig. That's all. Very simple save $300 for hiring the service man. Good luck to all.

Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

Used my fingers and pulled the old one our and pressec the new one in all in about 30 seconds. Saved at least a $60 service call.

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

Simple job, empty the door shelves, remove top hinge, lift door off bottom hinge, remove bottom hing. The reassembly is the reverse, with a little cleaning along the way and a little white lithium grease on the hinge pins and cams.

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Note difference between Freezer and Fresh food door.
Also, did not need the Door Stop but should have ordered one water tube union (PS299116). See Freezer below

Fresh Food Door
1. Removed cap at top of fresh food door (Philips screw) and used socket wrench to remove two hex head screws from top of refrigerator.
2. This allowed door to be lifted off base.
3. Removed door stop, hinge shim and broken cam riser from door using socket set and nut driver. Two hex head screws.
4. Replaced all three parts with new parts, re-attached using existing Hex Screws. Make sure cam riser is aligned properly to allow door to fit back on hinge. If it's slightly off, the door will not settle on hinge properly.
5. Replaced door, make sure it aligns properly before tightening Hex Screws to top of Refrigerator. Replaced cap at top.

Same process for freezer door except:
a. At the top of the door, I had an electrical connection due to Ice/water dispenser in the door. This connection is fairly easy to disconnect.
b. There is a drain tube that runs inside the door and through the hinge assembly in the base of the door. The door can not be removed unless the tube is disconnected or cut. There was a Water Tube Union (PS299116) just beyond the bottom hinge which I was able to disassemble to free the tube. However, this took considerable force and luck and I would recommend you consider buying a new part in case it breaks or you need to cut the tube. Otherwise you will not be able to get the door off. Once the tube is disconnected, it easily slides through the hinge and the door can be removed.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.

After a little research I realized my problem could be one or possibly two components of three that caused the problem. Instead of changing one at a time, I took another approach. I just bought and changed all three to save time and prevent having to do the job all over again. Each time I would have to melt the ice off of the cooling coils and this is time consuming and annoying having to melt the ice repeatedly. I put a very accurate thermometer in the fridge and have been monitoring it since I changed the components. After one week it seems to be working fine keeping the fridge at 34-38 degree F.

I slid the old ice maker (which was rusty) out of the freezer. I emptied the ice cubes. I unscrewed the 3 screws holding the plate to the old ice maker. I attached the original plate to the new ice maker/ auger unit with 2 screws. The new icemaker assembly did not match up with a 3rd screw hole. The 2 screws seem to be holding securely.
I reinserted the new assembly. Shorly after this nice clean ice cubes began to form. Works very well!