PZS23KSEEFSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape

Removed ice bucket and observed the plastic drive bushing for the auger had the drive dog broken off. I removed the four screws on outer shell for the ice bucket, removed it and found the auger had key stoned a hole in the ice tray housing. At that point I decided to replace the ice bucket and auger assy. The new one works fine.

I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.

Took out ice tray and then slid motor out of right side bracket and sat on shelf. Removed the 3 screws holding up left side bucket glide first. Make sure you have correct size socket for the 3 screws on bucket glide. Works best with a screwdriver type socket tool. I then removed broken plastic piece from motor (screw in motor is different size than the ones for left side bucket glide). I put in new left side bucket glide (rear back screw a little bit of a challenge but it can be done) and then slid motor back into right side bracket and fastened motor to new plastic piece that sticks out from left side bucket glide. Put back in ice tray and good to go!

I removed the ice from the tray, took out the four screws from the tray, pulled up the metal spiral took out the old drive cup, replaced with the new one, replaced the screws and put the tray back in the freezer. A piece of cake. Thanks for your prompt service and the reviews on how to replace.

Replacing the water filter with the new style water filter was no problem...twist to the left, drop the old filter, line up arrows on housing and new filter, twist to the right and done.

Ice maker was always crusing ice. There is a spring deflector wound around the actuating rod towards the back of the ice dispenser. Pulled the ice dispenser out, slid the damaged spring off, and slid the new spring deflector on making sure to engage the actuator rod to restore it's action. Easy fix.

We actually followed the instructions of the video for the installation of the dual inlet valve and it was incredibly easy to perform. The fridge works perfect again!

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

I removed the 4 screws from the cradel then I wedged the tabs open on the unit and removed the main operating mechanism .Ithen removed the broken parts and reassembled the mechanism I put the unit back together in
reverse order. It works just fine.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.