TPX24B1YABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

remove screws from broken rails and install new rails with screws.

Very simple fix. Unscrewed broken drawer rails and replaced with the new. No big deal. But again, these seem very flimsy for this model of refrigerator. they should use metal drawer rails with rollers to better accomodate the wieght of produce in the drawers.

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.

I had to take out 4 screws that held the element in place. remove the old element and disconnected one wire connection. put the new element back on and connected the wire .

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

After determining that the condenser motor, fan, nor ice maker were the source of the smell. Removed all the food and the rear panel of the freezer. Totally defrost the freezer before you remove the back panel. The panel has a gasket on either side, which are easy to remove and make removal of the panel easier. The back panel is also held on with 9 screws. The biggest problem was fitting both my hands into the freezer with a large body attached to the hands. The defrost heater had a burnt wire attached to the top heater. The two heaters remove with 2 screws each. The heater thermister snaps onto the freezer coils and is included in the defroster heater kit.
Replace the heater thermisters and wiring in the reverse order of removal. Re-attach the two gaskets to the back panel and slide the panel up from the bottom, this will allow re-assembly without removing the shelf brackets. Replace the 9 screws and yo are done.

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place

replaced condenser fan motor.
also, i ordered the part on a tuesday and received it the next day. partselect is a very well run company.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

Evaporator freezing up. First changed the heaters. still freezing up. Ordered the timer. Removed the control's cover. Removed 1 screw, timer was fastedned with 2 screws, removed them, replaced with new timer. Problem fixed

Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.

Well I Googled the problem to the dual inlet water valve. Luckily I found PartSelect for the correct part and the installation was simple. I now have both the cubes and water working properly from the dispense.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.