38371PBRBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

PartSelect shipped me the part and it arrived in less than 3 days. It took longer to unwrap the excellent packing than it did to pop the new door into place. Wonderful!

Took out the drawers slipped the new track into place and replaced the drawers.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Defrosted the refrigerator,power off and cut the 2 wires on thermostat and sodered the new one on and shrink tube sealed the wires,refrigerator works like new!

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.

per your instructions

HI I am Stoyan. I had a problem with my refrigerator. The freezer produces a lot of ice, but the refrigerator was warm. I try to find what other people comment on this site partselect.com. I decided that the thermostat is damaged. I ordered the thermostat from partselect.com and I had the delivery within 24 h. and I was very happy with the fast delivery service .I saw a video on the same site how they show how to do myself the change of the thermostat. I took the hairdryer from my wife to defrost the refrigerator for 40 minutes and removed the old thermostat. I decided to test the heater with a 9 volts electricity from a portable charger for a car. I made an electric circuit chain and on the end of the heater I saw that there was 9 volts electricity and I understood they are ok. I changed the thermostat for 5 minutes, looking very carefully to match the colors of the cables. For $ 11, I saved money to buy a new refrigerator or pay a big bill to a repair service. Thank you for the video that helped me very much. My refrigerator work well.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

removed freezer panel,found the evap.iced up,put defrost timer into defrost. wated five min.no heat used hair dryer to defrost evap.found termination visually defective.replace defective part.no call back.Iam a EPA certified universal technician.

Defrost timer is hidden in the control panel in the refrigerator top middle. Turn to off and remove two screws which are hidden behind white tabs. I had to pry the old timer from the plug with a screw driver because it was tight. Try not to short across the terminals. Plug in the new timer. Replace it in the clip where you got old one and reinstall the controls. The freezer was still all frosted up so I had to remove the cover and defrost it with a hair dryer to get it to work. Then I turned it on and it works great.

I followed advice from other posts on this web site. The only thing additional I'd recommend is to take pictures of assemblies before you disassemble them. A neighbor gave me that useful tip. It should be noted that I first noticed my refrigerator failure back on June 22, 2012. I hired a reputable local repair service to fix it. They replaced the Defrost heater (item 618) and charged me $ 208.14. Then on August 22nd, I noticed that the problem resurfaced. I decided to fix it myself using info from site. The repair went well, and I'm hopeful that it will stay repaired. Kudos to this site!