GSS23HGHBCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed 3 screws with 1/4 " nut driver, unplugged 2 plugs by prying out on side tabs, removed bracket and motor. Used vice grips to hold motor shaft and used screwdriver to turn auger fork clockwise and remove. Unplugged two connectors from motor. removed 3 screws with 1/4" nut driver to remove motor. changed rubber boot from old motor to new. Reversed procedures to install new motor on bracket, auger fork, bracket in freezer, etc. Only difficulty getting both hands in narrow freezer compartment. Still didn't work, called repairman. When he got here I showed him the problem and lo and behold, now it would not dispense water. He diagnosed it as a bad motherboard, replaced it and all good now. Motherboard $150, diagnose and labor $90, but it is all good now and I even have a spare motor. The failing mother board causes strange howling noises at times and we discovered the compressor fan had also stopped working and in a short while I would have had a bad problem. Caught it just in time!!!

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

I followed the isntructions of another fellow who had repaired his ice maker, but made the mistake of taking the ice crushers apart before noting where the fixed blades were to be reassembled. Since there was not a schematic with the part I had to go on line to your site and enlarge and use the one there, while accurate, was very hard to read and when I finished, I think it is in the wrong place as I'm not able to get the fineness of crushed ice I had before the repair, but absent a very legible schematic I'm not going to try to fix it further. The auger works, gives us ice cubes and half crushed cubes.
Another tip for future repairers is to to wait for the ice container to warm up or use a hair drier on the part where the tabs need to be depressed to slip off the blade housing. When cold it's extremely brittle, but since I had to leave the job for later at one point and left in on my work bench I found it much more pliable and easy to assemble.
All in all, I'm OK with the part and the result, but wish I could have gotten the fixed blade back into the right spot.

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Slip out old one, slide in new tray!

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.