TPX24SIBABS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

replace entire inlet valve (block)

Un-plugged the refrigerator, removed the existing water valve and pressure fittings; replaced the old tubing and reconnected the faston connectors using the two adaptors provided.

Took about 30 minutes.

Works fine although the sound of filling the ice-tray is a bit lauder that the previous valve.

Placed the glass shelf in the new shelf frame and the frame in the refrigerator.

I was unable to positively identify the replacement shelf frame on the GE web site. Part Select's exploded view made it a piece of cake!

The repair took all of 15 minutes. The original part once unscrewed was a little difficult to remove with out damaging other parts. The new part was very easy to install, didn't fit exactly like the original. Had to force into possition. Works great.

It was too simple. I follwed the instruction already on the webb site. 3 easy steps.

Observing the ice maker itself was working, and that water was flowing to the dual inlet water valve, I assumed the problem must be a faulty outflow valve. If either of the two valves do not close completely, the water slowly accumulates in the plastic line and freezes as it enters the freezer compartment. A solid plug of ice will form in the line, either causing no water to enter the ice tray, or it may leak under pressure when the valve opens briefly (as was my case). The solution was simple: change the dual inlet valve, and while this took me approximately 15 minutes to 1)turn off electricity and water to the frig, and 2)replace the part, the plastic tube going to the ice tray warmed up enough as I watched a one inch plug of ice exit the tubing. Once the power and water was turned on, and I checked for leaks, the ice maker worked like new! Not bad for a $30 fix.

Fairly easy I pull the fridge foward and remove the backing board and notice the fan wasn't working, so I remove the fan and bench tested and it was burned then I clean the condenser with compress air if you don't have air then a vacuum cleaner works then once the part arrived I install it the now if working very good

I removed the valve from the fridge with a nut driver, this allowed me to disconnect the two lines and the water main inlet. Re attach the main line and cut off ends of both plastic lines with a razor knife and re insert the two lines. Last was to connect the main water inlet and tighten . The last thing was to turn on the water and check for leaks and we had none so put the fridge back in its proper place and job done. Thank you for your help Michael

I removed the old valve assembly from the refrigerator's cabinet with a nut driver. I then pushed the lines for the water dispenser and ice maker into the valve and attached it to the cabinet. After connecting the water supply we had ice and water.

1. Turn water supply off at wall. Unpulg referigerator. Remove all cardboard backing covering valve. Vaccum under ref. Unscrew water line where it attaches to valve on ref. (Reuse this later) unplug 4 electrical prongs. Mark with colored pen if not already color coded, so can put back correctly. Pull old ice maker and ref water supply out of valve if it does not screw in with nut. Cut very short peice off end of ref water lines. Slide new locks on water supply lines and push into water valve very hard to lock. Cant get them wrong as they are different sizes. Plug in electrical connectors same as you unpluged them. Connect water line to valve from wall. Turn water on and check for leaks. If none. Replace all screws on backing. Recheck for water on floor. If none congrads, just saved yourself about $120. 00 Labor. Take 2 asprin, drink a six pack and go to bed.

Shut off water & elect to refg. moved refg out from wall. Removed back cover. disconnected water & electric connections. Removed old valve and installed new one . Plastic tube fit in same place elect pins (4) snapped in place. Used teflon tape when connecting copper plumbing to stop leaks. Also cut old tubing & replaced copper 1/4" compression ring. Note I ordered part before noon on thursday, part arrived fri AM 9:00 FedEx.reg service. cleaned up mess picked up tools. Refg worked like new. saved money on service call. Thanks

Ordered this part after i replaced the plastic tubes on the back as the problem persisted. loosen the nuts holding the water inlet lines, remove the cover to the valve. remove the valve and the water inlet line to the the valve. Disconnect the 2 outlets from the valve. 1 outlet to icemaker and other outlet to water cooler (bigger). Connect water inlet and 2 outlets to the new valve, test the water lines. Found the inlet is leaking, removed it and added teflon tape and reconnect it. All is done. Then I left the freezer door open for 3 hours to melt the ice on the wrong places and all is well.

I noticed water leaking from the bottom right rear of the fridge. I figured it was from the ice maker feed as I don't have the ice water feature on this GE profile. I shut the water supply off, ordered the part and received it in a few days. The defective part was easily accessible after I removed the cardboard cover. I removed the copper feed and unscrewed the old valve with a nutdriver. The new part fit perfectly, and even though there were instructions in the part to use the old bracket. the plastic water feed fit into the ice maker compression fitting with ease. I ran into a problem when I re-installed the copper compression fitting on the new valve,as I could not stop a leak from the top of the compression fitting. When my plumber originally installed the copper line he used enough pressure to deform the compression sleeve that slips over the copper tube. I had a couple of them in my "parts" drawer, so I took my tubing cutter and took 1/2" of the end of the copper supply line; slipped the new sleeve and re-installed the compression nut over the valve....fit perfectly. Turned on the water supply; no leaks. Checked the icemaker about 4 hours later and it made the first tray of ice. If I didn't have to deal with the water supply leak at the fitting, the job would have been finished in 30 to 45 minutes.

Removal of old part was very easy. However, there had been some new changes to the new valve. The prongs on the dispenser solenoid are narrower than the original so the push on connector would not grasp the prong and kept falling off. I finally was able to squash and crimp the pushon enough to make it stay on . Also, the waterline connection was changed from a compression nut with flared tubing end to a much easier cap nut and copper compression ring. This required a trip to the hardware store to buy the cap nut and ring and also required cutting the tubing above the flared end to remove the compression nut. Once this was done, the reassembly was simple. The required time would have been about 20 minutes if I didn't have to go to the store and redisassemble three times to reconnect the water supply solenoid push on..

Replaced valve with only one difficulty - the electrical spade connectors were different size. Did not come with adapters, as described on the web site.