PSS29NGMCCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

We ordered the basket with auger and all I had to do was take the old one out and slide the new one in. EASY !

I followed the instructions found on this website. I removed the control panel by inserting a small Phillips screwdriver in the three holes at its bottom. I used the same screwdriver to pull the dispenser assembly down but could have used a larger one. The microswitch could be seen in the assembly at that point and was easily removed by opening the "fingers" that held it in place. I attempted to pull one of the terminals off without using a pair of needle-nosed pliers and ripped the wires right out of the terminal(I was able to find a replacement at Radio Shack). Low and behold after reinstalling the new part, it did not take care of the problem.

My problem is the water dispenser does work intermittently. When we place the glass in position and hit the lever, the lights in the control panel go off and no water is dispensed. My next guess may be the water valve or the control panel. The icemaker makes ice but I have had problems with it dispensing for nearly a year now.

After thawing out freezer pushed water supply tube out from inside freezer diconneted the supply line from the valve assembly by pushing in the bushing with my finger and inserting the new line. Sadly that wasn't the problem!For anyone with the same symptoms of ice building up on your ice maker, to the point where it clogged the water supply line and started leaking from the grommet assembly. The problem is the valve not closing when the ice maker does not need any water. so I ordered a new valve and hopefully that will fix my problem.

The first component I suspect is the relay mounted near the compressor. I installed the replacement relay and still nothing. I then removed the control board, inspected it for burnt circuit paths or components. I noticed the c.b. relay for the compressor's lead had burned away the solder and there was no longer a viable connection. Not sure why this happened but my next step is to a) reestablish a solder connection. If this fails then b) replace the control board.

I had to remove the contents of the freezer, and remove the fan covers ( 2 screws) and the back of the freezer. I pulled out the evap motor assembly, removed the motor from that and re-installed the new motor into the assembly, (2 screws). Installed the evap assembly back into the freezer, ( another 2 screws), making sure to plug the motor into the wire harness and keeping the wires away from the fan blades. Then installed the back of the freezer (2 screws...again) and put on the 2 plastic pieces that completes the freezer assembly. I plugged the refrigerator back in and heard the fan start and knew everything was going to work fine

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.

First I removed the two screws that hold the tank in place. I then pulled the tank out about 3 inches and cut the water tubes to tank. Replaced new tank using 5/16 quick connects for water tubes.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

I determined that the icemaker was not getting any water to the unit. The icemaker was still cycling but was not filling with water. I assumed the water valve was malfunctioning so I looked up the schematic drawing on the site and ordered the Water Valve & Bracket Assembly. It arrived within days. It took less than 10 minutes to install with miniumal effort. Within minutes the water could be heard flowing into the unit. Within an hour we had ice again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.

Replaced and put everything back together.

bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.

Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.

When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.

Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.

Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.

Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.

First I removed the screws, and the covering at the bottom rear of the GE Fridge. I then removed the existing water valve which was the source of water leak, it was all corroded with the leak at the valve joints, so I knew the water valve needed to be replaced. The water valve I received from PartSelect fitted in perfectly, once I had removed the old valve. All I needed was couple of screw drivers for the replacement. I would like to thank PartSelect for making this easy and saving me lots of money & time by not going for outside professional help.