PSSS3RGZBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Wilbert from Fort Lauderdale, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fan To Cool Condenser Not Working
1. Unplugged the refrigerator 2. Vacuum inside of dust 3. Unscrewed motor and fan 4. Replaced motor then fan 5. Plugged refrigerator bingo! :)
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- Customer:
- justin from brownsville, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR49X10091
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
evertthing in frige was freezing
went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Elizabethtown, KY
- Parts Used:
- WR30X35285
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice maker quit working
Looked up possible causes on the internet, did the trouble shooting: off wait 15 seconds, then on, hit the ice level switch 3 times. No cycling - order a new ice maker. Had already checked water supply line and water filter. Screws in difficult positions to use standard screwdrivers or if you have medium size hands to remove plastic guards. After that was easy to replace whole unit. Cut plastic guards to be able to get at mounting screws for next time. Designers definitely need to think about consumer repairing of items rather than disposable major items not built to last 10+ years.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Glendale, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR29X43990, WR17X11505
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Ice Bucket Was Cracket And The Auger Also Broken.
I was able to order the correct parts . Needed my son in law (who in an engineer) to put it together. It was sort of a challenge forhim too. W the persons that I spoke to were very helpful and very nice and the parts came quickly. Thank heavens for the internet. The part that was broken was inside the freezer part of my frig.
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- Customer:
- James from Jacksonville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR11X10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer door lever broke
Unscrew the two mounting screws for the plastic vent plate on the bottom of the SS unit and take the remove the vent. Next, slide the end of the lever through the square hole in the bottom bracket and attach the hook end of the lever to one end of the lever spring. Pull on the other end of the lever spring and slip it over the spring mount finger that is a part of the bottom bracket frame. Finally,reattach the plastic vent plate with the 2 mounting screws. Total repair time was less than 15 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Gregory from Yucca Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2891, WR02X11330
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broken water line near solonoid to feed drinking water
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
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- Customer:
- David from Woodland Hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11497
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
A piece of the crusher cover broke off into the ice bin
I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.
Replaced and put everything back together.
Replaced and put everything back together.
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- Customer:
- Herbert from Sunriver, OR
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C, WR49X10091
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Frozen water filter and food in fresh food side
Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.
When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.
Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.
Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.
Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.
When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.
Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.
Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.
Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Meridian, MS
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11168
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench set
Icemaker supply hose leaking at freezer entrance
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!
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- Customer:
- D from ZELLWOOD, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
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- Customer:
- Heather from Pennington, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loss of refrigeration
After mopping up the floor - the whole freezer that was iced up melted - that's how I found out about the problem...
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
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- Customer:
- Deanna from MANDAN, ND
- Parts Used:
- WR01X10450
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fridge handle missing set screw.
Opened the package. Set screw fell on floor. Luckily cat found it right away. Fight the cat for the screw. Dug through my tools and the first Allen wrench I picked up fit. "What the hell? That never happens so obviously the screw won't fit," I think to myself. Put the screw in the hole and give it a few turns until my fat finger can't hold it. It's a miracle and the thing fits! Fight the close quarters with the Allen wrench to tighten it. Works like a charm!! Now I don't scare myself when I open the door thinking I'm going to rip the handle right off. Now I have easy access to my ice cream. The parts finder tool on the website was really easy and I found what I was looking for.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Merrimac, MA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
water line leaking behind refigerator
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks
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- Customer:
- Sherry from Auburn Hills, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My 13 yr grandson assisted me on this
We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Alamosa, CO
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Condenser Fan Motor stopped turning
1. Unplugged the fridge. 2. unplugged the fan connection and removed the wire holding clip. 3. removed the 2 screws holding the motor bracket in place and removed the bracket. 4. Pulled gently back on the motor so that the fan pressed against the front bracket until the fan slid off the motor shaft. 5. Pulled the rubber motor mounts off of the old motor and placed on the new motor. 6. Slide the new motor in place pressed the fan all the way onto the shaft. 7. Placed the rear motor bracket in place and started the screws by hand making sure the ground wire was attached to the furthest away screw. 8. tightened the screws down. 9. Pushed in the wire holding clip into the clip hole. 10. Plugged back in the fan. 11. Plugged back in the fridge. 12. Turned down the temp on the fridge to kick on the compressor and checked to assure the fan was operating and then set the temp back to normal. 13. Vacuumed the condenser coils to get them all clean and ready for more years of service!
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