FIG21IEMFFBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

Undid the three screws (one just held the light, which had to be detached but not removed from the refer), cut the lines several inches up, and removed the old reservoir. No quick connects came w/the part, and 5/16" items are not available in most stores, including Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, True Value, etc, so had to order separately on line (search 5/16" quick connect) (another $12 with S&H). Don't use a pinching type tool to cut the lines - not a smooth cut. I used a miniature pipe cutter I happened to have because I am a hobbyist. Cut the lines on the new reservoir at same place as old one, pushed the quick connects on, pushed the QCs on the lines sticking out of the refer, replaced screws, and was done. Quick connects should be included with this part.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

I had to remove 2 screws to get the broken door stop off then I put the new door stop on by using the 2 same screws.

After removing three screws on the ice bucket, it basicly came apart by itself. I needed to use pliers to remove the old nut because it had over tightened itself onto the shaft. Be careful here - it is a left hand nut - not a normal right hand nut! Reassembly was a snap putting the parts back together in reverse order. Unit has been working great since the repair.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

I removed the screws out of the hinge while my wife put pressure on the door to hold it in place. I removed the hinge, replaced it with a new one, and screwed it back in place. Took just a couple of minutes. Easy and fast. The refrigerator was not leveled properly and that was why the door had swung back so fast, with enough force to eventually bend the hinge. I contacted geappliances.custhelp.com and used the chat option to speak to someone about how to lower the back wheels. They were extremely helpful in walking me through it. Now the refrigerator is leveled, and the door, when opened, will not swing back and contact the hinge. My overall experience in fixing this problem, from locating and ordering the correct part, to installing it, and then fixing the problem that led to the hinge being damaged in the first place, was outstanding.

Pretty easy to repair. Only took a few minutes.

look at how the unit was put together and disassemled it pice by piece and labeled parts as i took them of in order then reversed when i reassembled