TFJ28PFBAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Rolled out the frigerator from the wall. Removed the electrical plug from the wall. Turned off the water valve; disconnected the inlet water line at the frigerator. Detached the dual valve assembly from the frigerator; identified and disconnected the outlet water lines and the four electrical lines from the old valve and installed them on to the new valve. Remounted the dual valve assembly on to the frigerator. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Re-plugged the electric cord in the wall outlet; pushed the refgrigerator back into position. Total elapsed time was about 15 minutes, not counting the time I directed my wife to get me various tools from my work bench and the time it took me remove my 88 year old body from the kitchen floor, back to an upright position. Peeked into the freezer several times over several hours to be certain there were no leaks.

took off the panel, took out 4 screwws, took out old flap, installed new flap, put screws back in , and put trim back on.

The same as the vidio, very easy. Thank you

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

Followed the instructions and replaced the door recess.

Pulled the outter cover off, removed the electronic board, replaced the flapper and put it back together again.

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

loosened connections of lines removed bolt holding valve pulled off wire connections new valve lines just pushed in reconnected wires put bolt back in and thats all there was to it no problems at all

After turning the water off and unplugging the refridgerator, I took the copper inlet tubing off using an adjustable wrench. I disconnected the two fuses that give power to the unit, and using a screwdriver, disconnected the water inlet/ outlet tubing from the old unit. I pushed the tubing into its proper place in the new unit, plugged in the two color coded fuses, used a wrench to reconnect the copper water tubing, and replaced the unit. EASY!!! So, easy, in fact that a non-handy girl could do it (and I can say that, being a non-handy girl!)

Turn off water supply line. Use Nut Driver to remove bolt holding assembly to the fridge. Disconnect (2) electrical connectors. Use wrench to disconnect water supply line, (NOTE: Since this unit is a universal type replacement, it did not re-mount to the fridge in the same fashion as the old assembly. I had to play with it to determine how to mount the new assembly in order to align & pick-up the existing bolt hole). Snap on the provided electrical connector adapter prongs and reconnect both connectors. Apply teflon tape on threads of water supply line fitting (optional). Tighten (do not over-tightened) water supply line to assembly (wrench). Use dikes to cut off compression fittings from both the ice and chilled water dispenser lines. Push lines into assembly. Re-mount assembly to fridge. Turn on water supply line. Check for leaks.

It is a dream with less than a minute I unscrew the old part and install the new part

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.