TFT28PFBAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the dispenser and disasembled it repaced plate and reasembled.

The valve I got was slightly bent up. I spent the first 10 minutes or so bending it back with my muscles. once that was done, I took off the backing of the fridge with the screwdriver, undid the single bolt holding the valve on, and unplugged it all (fridge was already unplugged). Just like everyone says, the tubing connecter is different, so I took off the old compression fittings, and pushed the tubes in. THen I hooked up the wiring... I realized that that the wiring adapter was needed but there wasn't enough room for it as is.. so I have to bend the tabs so the wiring would angle down. Everything has worked perfect since... I got Ice and no leaks! woo hoo!

Removed three screws, water input line, two water output lines. The new valve had push on fittings instead of screw on, so had to cut the old fittings off. Connecte input and output lines Replaced three screws holding valve in place. Turned water back on. Finished.

1. Use skewer to press plastic tabs under control panel, 2. Remove control panel and unplug solenoid, 3. Unscrew dispenser assembly and solenoid screws, 4. Press in tabs on lamp and remove assembly - unplug, 5. Replace lamp assembly, 6. Replace solenoid assembly and fasten screws, 7. Replace flapper. 8. Replace other parts in reverse order.

Cut the line inside the regiferator behind the bin and used the tube union to attach new 5/16" tubing to run to the solenoid valve assy in the back of the refigerator. Location of the valve assy makes connecting very difficult. But was able to complete repairs.

Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.

Replaced dispenser flapper

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

I found a replacement evaporator fan motor and 2 mounting bracket grommets at PartSelect.com at a reasonable price. I watched the installation video provided and installed the new parts as shown in the video start to finish installation time 22 minutes.i

removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123

Followed the instructions and replaced the door recess.

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

1. Unplug the fridge
2. Removed the outer facing of the dispenser outside the freezer door. This is fairly easy, better with a tool (plastic scraper) that won't mar the finish.
3. Removed the plastic plate with labels -- water, ice, etc. This is done by sliding a small jewelers screwdriver into the slots on the left, middle and right in back of the plate. These are difficult to see without a flashlight.
4. Removed the four screws in the panel behind this plate.
5. Unpluged the large cable on the left side after the panel is freed.
5. Removed the rubber "dispenser" button. this just pulls off.
6. Remove the panel
7. Lift flapper up and remove. Clips hold this in.
8. Put new flapper in place.
9. Use reverse order to put back together.
Piece of cake. Ice maker no longer frosts up.!!!!

Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.