TPJ24PRBAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

After turning the water off and unplugging the refridgerator, I took the copper inlet tubing off using an adjustable wrench. I disconnected the two fuses that give power to the unit, and using a screwdriver, disconnected the water inlet/ outlet tubing from the old unit. I pushed the tubing into its proper place in the new unit, plugged in the two color coded fuses, used a wrench to reconnect the copper water tubing, and replaced the unit. EASY!!! So, easy, in fact that a non-handy girl could do it (and I can say that, being a non-handy girl!)

Followed the instructions and replaced the door recess.

It is a dream with less than a minute I unscrew the old part and install the new part

took off the panel, took out 4 screwws, took out old flap, installed new flap, put screws back in , and put trim back on.

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Removed ice dispenser trim from bottom-up and then removed control panel by gently pulling up from the bottom. Removed four screws holding dispenser chute and then two screws holing flapper assembly. Replaced gnarly old flapper with a new one and put all removed pieces back together.

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

removed two screws holding water valve in place; pull out valve and remove water supply line; remove two water lines going into box; connect lines to new valve and reinstall

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!

The same as the vidio, very easy. Thank you

Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.

removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.