TPJ24PRBAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy

I used a screwdriver to remove, then replace, the screw that holds in the valve. I used pliers to pull the refer water line out of the old valve. I just used my hands to reinstall the line. I used and open box wrench to remove and reattach the main water line. Nothing blocked access to the valve and it was very easy to remove the old one and install the new one.

Removed lower cover screws removed cover removed copper water feed tubing connector unplugged wire connectors pulled out plastic water line connector and water lines removed water valve assembly installed water lines installed wire connectors secured valve assembly reinstalled copper water line turned on water valve checked for leaks reinstalled lower rear cover

I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water. I removed the back of the frig where the inlet valve is located. I removed the old nuts and cut the plastic water line on the ends. I shoved them into the new fittings. I then turned on the water and plugged in the frig. I could hear the water pumping into the ice maker. I screwed the inlet and back of refrigerator in place.

Replaced dispenser flapper

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.

Turn off water supply line. Use Nut Driver to remove bolt holding assembly to the fridge. Disconnect (2) electrical connectors. Use wrench to disconnect water supply line, (NOTE: Since this unit is a universal type replacement, it did not re-mount to the fridge in the same fashion as the old assembly. I had to play with it to determine how to mount the new assembly in order to align & pick-up the existing bolt hole). Snap on the provided electrical connector adapter prongs and reconnect both connectors. Apply teflon tape on threads of water supply line fitting (optional). Tighten (do not over-tightened) water supply line to assembly (wrench). Use dikes to cut off compression fittings from both the ice and chilled water dispenser lines. Push lines into assembly. Re-mount assembly to fridge. Turn on water supply line. Check for leaks.

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

Pulled the outter cover off, removed the electronic board, replaced the flapper and put it back together again.

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

Rolled out the frigerator from the wall. Removed the electrical plug from the wall. Turned off the water valve; disconnected the inlet water line at the frigerator. Detached the dual valve assembly from the frigerator; identified and disconnected the outlet water lines and the four electrical lines from the old valve and installed them on to the new valve. Remounted the dual valve assembly on to the frigerator. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Re-plugged the electric cord in the wall outlet; pushed the refgrigerator back into position. Total elapsed time was about 15 minutes, not counting the time I directed my wife to get me various tools from my work bench and the time it took me remove my 88 year old body from the kitchen floor, back to an upright position. Peeked into the freezer several times over several hours to be certain there were no leaks.

loosened connections of lines removed bolt holding valve pulled off wire connections new valve lines just pushed in reconnected wires put bolt back in and thats all there was to it no problems at all