TPJ24PRBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The valve was leaking from the core and not the in/out tubes. The valve is easy to get to and very easy to replace. When replacing the water in/outs you cut them off the old valve and then slip them on the new valve. 5 to 10 minute job.

replaced solenoid

unclipped and replace with new part.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.

Replaced dispenser flapper

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!

removed two screws holding water valve in place; pull out valve and remove water supply line; remove two water lines going into box; connect lines to new valve and reinstall

Removed ice dispenser trim from bottom-up and then removed control panel by gently pulling up from the bottom. Removed four screws holding dispenser chute and then two screws holing flapper assembly. Replaced gnarly old flapper with a new one and put all removed pieces back together.

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.