PSS29NSTCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the two screws which released the door stop. I then put the new door stop in place and installed the two screws. Job Done.

Followed your instructions and you made it simple.Thanks a million.

Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress when door shuts.

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

shut off water supply to unit, pull the unit out,unplug, unscrew lower back cover, locate valve relay unit (bottom left, black and clear hose coming out of it) undo the quick connect for the clear water hose on the right (black one is for ice).

front of the unit, bottom left, locate the other hose (longer one) running to the freezer door from under the unit, undo quick connect.

Inside unit, remove middle drawers, careful with the glass panels as these just lay on top and are not fixed.

undo the 3 screws for the old tank, pull it out, snake the hoses thru the grommet on the bottom, reverse process...all set!

I had Sears comre and check it out. They wanted $188. for the part and wanted $211 to put it in. They had the part in the truck. The fridg is a GE Profile and only 2 years old. Told them to forget it. Took me literally less than 10 minutes. They did a diagnostics, cost me $77. they told me the problem. I ordered the part here. It came in 3 days and the directions included were awesome. straight forward. Nice to know there is a place to go to avoid getting the shaft from appliance giants. Thank You !

The details: removed the 3 screws, took a picture of the board, didn't need it, unplugged the 6 plugs. pushed 3 clipds holding the board, unscrewed the ground, removed the board, lined up the 3 clips and snapped the new board in place, replugged the plugs and screwed in the ground. Plug the fridg in, done. Literally that easy.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.

opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

The refrigerator was staying in defrost too long allowing the temperature to rise to the point that part of the ice (probably some of the food too) to melt then re-freeze. I first changed out the temp sensor and thermostat because I wanted to try the cheap stuff first but that didn't fix it, I should have gone with the mainboard first as it was the most likely cause. After putting in the new mainboard in the thing has worked perfectly since. The board was extremely easy to change, take the metal cover off with a nut driver. Carefully unplug the wires from old board and remove the board. The board is mounted on some plastic standoffs that expand after passing through the board, some of these came out while i was disconnecting the wires but some were there to stay until I figured out that I needed to squeeze the top of them to release the board. After getting the old board out just put the new one on the standoffs and connect the wires. Put the cover back on and DONE!

NOTES: The new board had some extra connectors that my old one did not, but the correct connectors were still in the old locations. The instructions that came with the board did talk about making some modifications to the refrigerator wiring on certain models, but that didn't apply to me. If I remember right the models requiring modification were all bottom freezer type. But even if you do have to do this the instrucions looked easy, just cut a couple of wires, no splicing or anything.

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

followed instructions already posted on your website, but had a very difficult time getting the dispensing side of the auger assembly to slide out, even after I disengaged the plastic tabs. There is no easy way or place to grab the assembly to pull it out. Finally turned the unit upside down and pounded on the edges of the assembly with a wood block and a small hammer. Once the part started coming out a couple of inches, I flipped over the ice bin and was able to pull it out the rest of the way, once I had something to grab on to. After the auger assembly was out the cup replacement was easy per posted instructions and the unit snapped back together easily.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.