GSS22JETBCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnected power. Removed evaporator cover in freezer. Removed the bad defrost heater. It is a glass tube about 10" long. The tube was black since the internal heater wire burned out. Use a hair dryer to melt ice in evaporator. Since there was excessive water coming from melt ice, I removed the back panel and took out the white plastic drain tube and collected water from the tube in a bucket. I put everything back and used the refrigerator for three days without problem, before the new heater arrived. Then I put on the new tube and everything was fine so far.

Replaced entire ice bucket and auger assembly (one piece).

I recieved the new ice bucket, I took out the old ice bucket and put the new ice bucket in.

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

Part arrived in 2 days and took about 15 seconds to install. Great!! No more broken eggs!!

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

I took the ice bucket out and looked at it carefully. The auger was breaking apart little by little. I went on-line to find what part I needed. I came to Part Select and they had a diagram telling exactly what part would solve my problem. I ordered it online and it arrived, nicely packed about four days later. I took out the old ice bucket with the broken auger and replaced it with the new one (which I washed out before installing). It was so easy and I didn't have to pay a repairman to do it. The price was reasonable, too. I have this site bookmarked in case anything else needs to be replaced. It's amazing what you can do yourself!

Unplugged frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used hair dryer hung on a wire to defrost the "ice block" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at partselect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. Re-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more ge major appliances for me.

REPLACING THE DEFROST HEATER & BRA:
1- Empty freezer.
2- Remove all shelves.
3- Remove white painted metal wall plate opposite
the freezer door. There are 2 phillips head screws
attaching it.
4- There may be ice build-up on the freezer coils,
thaw the ice using a hair dryer.
5- Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the
defrost heater to the freezer coil frame, at the
bottom of the frame.
6- Install the defrost heater to the frame.
7- Replace metal panel.

REPLACING THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT.

1-Perform steps 1-4 above.
2-Locate the thermostat at the top of the freezer
coil in the freezer.
3-Cut the wires connecting the thermostat.
4-Connect the new thermostat to the wires that
were connecting the old thermostat, connecting
the wire color to the same color wire.

Note: Connect the wires by using wire splices
available at radio shack. Use splices
sized for 20 guage wire, and wrap with
electrical tape to protect from moisture.

5- Replace metal panel.

Local repairman was called. He replaced the condenser fan motor as it had an intermittent noise several days before. Cost of the repair was 252.00. Two days later freezer was thawing again. He then came back again and said it was probably the evaporator fan and would replace it for 339. dollars or the mother board which he would replace for 500 dollars. He recommended replacing the unit. Since my unit was still in pristine looking condition I decided to do some further research. That is when I found your web site. After reviewing the possible causes on your site I ordered the defrost themostat and and all three thermistors.As a precaution I also ordered the evaporator fan and defrost heater and bracket Assembly. When the parts arrived I disconnected the power to the unit. Removed the shelves and lower pan. Removed the light shield and light bulb. Reovede the two screws holding the evaporator coil cover. This allowed access to the evaporator themostat. I then cut the wires from the old themostat and removed it from the coil. I then stripped the wires on the colored wires and also cut the wires on the new themostat and stripped those. Then using wire nuts I aatached the wires making sure they were properly color coded. Wrapped with electrical tape and attached the new thermostat to the evaporator coil. I then located the evaporator temperature sensor and removed it from the coil and removed the clip and placed it aside for use on the new sensor. I cut the wires and discarded old sensor. Stripped wires on the new sensor after determining the proper length and stripped the wires where the old one was removed and the using in line connectors I first crimped the wires on the new connector and the crimped both wires to the wires previously cut and stripped. Reinstalled the connector to the clip and clipped it back onto the evaporator coil. I then disconnected the wires attached to the defrost heater bracket assembly, located the two screws holding it to unit and removed it from the unit. I did a continuity check on it and it checked ok but was black so I replaced it as a precaution since I already had a new one. Hung the new unit onto the mounting bracket reinstalled the two mounting screws and reattached the two wires. Reinstalled the evaporator cover making sure to reattach the ground wire clip. Reinstalled screws and light cover and all shelves and pan. Reconneceted electrical power. Unit operated fine for a couple of days and then thawed again. I then retraced the steps removing what I had to remove to replace the evaporator fan motor and replaced it per the installation instructions on your site. The unit has now been operating for five days maintaining -8 degrees in the freezer and 37degrees in the refrigerator. I probably could have done a little more trouble shooting at the main board but didn't want to risk damaging that since I already had the parts I thought would fix the problem if it wasn't the main board. I only replaced the one temperature sensor so I will probably return the two I did not use. Thanks for your excellent "how to"videos.

Bing , Bang, Boom.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.