GCE23YETBFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

The thermostat was set at 0 for the freezer, but at 37 for the refrigerator. The refrigerator was showing a temperature of 20 degrees and would not stay at 37. After learning the 3 choices it could be (air inlet cover, thermostat, and computer), I went for the air inlet on the basis of percentage of repair. With this particular refrigerator with this problem; this is repair has the highest chance of success. Nice on-line decision making tool! I went with choices of previous buyers and followed previous buyers instructions. All I needed was a couple of Phillips head screw drivers, and cleaning the dirt I was finding in the refrigerator was the biggest job.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

killed power-gently pried out old switch using two screw drivers-replaced faulty switch-and tested OK.

I researched the issue on line and replaced the microswitch. I didn't test the part since it was so inexpensive and the whole process only took me about 15 minutes to complete. I didn't know "where" the microswitch was located until I watched your video, a very helpful tool. Thanks PartSelect, the part arrived 3 days after I ordered it.Mike in Spokane, WA

Used a 2" putty knife to lift off the old switch. Disconnected the broken switch and replaced it with the new one. Took about 1 minute.

Used nut driver to remove two screws at top of tube, and the three screws holding composite cover on back of fridge. Pulled out the upper portion of tube, pulled up on fitting and removed lower portion of tube. Put upper spout portion of new supply tube into position, replaced two screws, pushed lower portion of tube into locking fitting on supply valve solenoid. Replaced composite cover with three screws, and was done. Entire job took less than 5 minutes. It took longer for me to find my nut driver set, than it took to do the repair. I ordered the part online, and it was delivered to my door in a lightning fast 36 hours. Hopefully I won't ever need any more appliance parts, but with your easy to navigate website, fast shipping, and fair prices, you have won me over as a customer. I will refer you to friends because of your high speed, low drag, zero defects, excellent service. Thank you very much. Rich.

as per video

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

The light switch was accidentally broken. I looked it up on your site and found the part. I ordered it and switched it out in a matter of minutes. It also helped having people who purchased their switches from the site explain how they repaired their switches with relative ease.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

i followed all the other submited solutions. really easy. popped out the broken light switch with thin tip screwdriver. careful not to let wires slip into compartment. then attached wires as i pulled them off broken switch. then carefully pop the new switch back in the slot. when i was younger i worked for an appliance repair company. i felt confident in this repair.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Removed control panel. Snapped out pretty easily. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). Replaced micro switch by prying it away from its holder (unsnaps easily). Disconnected the two wires leading to the micro switch and connected them to the new microswitch and reinstalled switch in reverse order. Cost of switch, approximately $13 including shipping. Saved a ton of money doing it myself.

Turned off water supply, removed bottom rear metal panel,with a towel to catch water pushed in and removed water line from double water outlet, removed metal clamp and then grommet tube assembly from top right rear of refrigerator. Then I put in new grommet tube assembly, turned on my water and checked for leaks.