GLM25WGSAGS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I used an ice pick to punch the tabs under the control panel to remove the ice/water selector panel. Then I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the solenoid switch. Unplugged the switch and re-installed with new one I received in 2 days and shazaam it works like new.

I watched the video on this site and read the comments here. Everything went as stated. I simply removed the front cover from the door, carefully pushing in the two plastic dimples to release the plastic piece. I used a very small screwdriver to get in the holes and pushed carefully while gently prying on the piece. It popped right out. I then carefully removed the three wire harnesses from the back of the cover. I then removed the four phillips screws that hold the cup pushing assembly on. I found this piece to be rather dirty/black moldy. I spent more time cleaning this with a toothbrush and soaking it than I did with the total repair of the solenoid, but I have much better piece of mind. I could now reach the solenoid, on the upper right hand corner. I removed the three screws and the solenoid was left hanging by the rusted top hook. I gently wiggled it off of the plastic arm that operates the flapper door. The new solenoid comes with the clip able to move freely and with no rust. Install the new solenoid in the same place and place the top hook onto the arm for the flapper door. Note, I WD40ed the screws and filed some of the rust off of the heads. I suggest ordering screws, like everybody says. But you can clean them up. I did this just in case I need to do this install again. The rest is just a matter of buttoning up everything. It is easy, don´t be intimidated. Anybody can do it, if you are the least bit handy and patient.

Removed food from Freezer, Unplugged refrigerator. Removed light bulb cover and ligt bulb. Unplugged and removed Ice maker and motor. Removed air duct cover from motor. Unplugged and removed evaporator housing and fan. Pulled fan blade off. Unscrewed brackets from fan motor, removed dust cap from top of motor and grommet from bottom. New motor came with 6 pin connector and four pins for evaporator fan motor. Cut the harness grommet to separate the light bulb wiring from the evaporator motor's. Pushed the the old light bulb pins (red and orange) from old connector and push them in to the new fan motor connector. Reversed the process and no more noise

Used ice pick on bottom of water/ice cover plate to pop it loose. Removed 4 phillips head screws to gain access to the solenoid. Removed and replaced solenoid. Reinstalled parts removed to gain access to the solenoid.

Since the mechanisms were in the freezer icemaker area, we deduced it was the fan motor. Ordered that from your store and it was delivered to our door in two days. Great service.

The part was replaced and our refrigerator has been quiet for the first time since we moved in almost four years ago and the refrigerator was new.

I was this close to calling a repair man when I stumbled upon this site. I would not have been able to attempt this relatively easy repair has I not seen the posts from people with the same problem. It was simple to pop off the cover and replace the selenoid using only about 8 screws total. Thanks to posts by other DIY'rs it was an easy job--this site is Great!

Used awl tto release the front panel. Used screw driver to release the solenoid. Ordered a new solenoid. Reverrsed the removal

Remove dispenser assembly in freezer door & replace solenoid.

Removed controls face plate by inserting small screw driver into small holes located below the face plate releasing internal fastening catches and permits you to pull the face plate down and out toward you. Remove the electronic panel now exposed covering the solenoid by removing the 4 screws in the corners. Detach the electrical connector leading from the solenoid ( It may be prudent to unplug the refrigerator as a safety proceedure). Proceed to remove 2 screws holding the solinoid. If the sollinoid is corroded and difficult to remove and disengage from flap(door) controling the ice shaft aperture, it may be necessary to remove the flap by removing 2 small screws holding it in place. Be careful to note the small spring on the left hand side of the shaft which the flap rotates around since it to be re installed in the proper position when the parts are reassembled since it closes the flap after it is opened by the solonoid.
Reconnect the parts and and snap face plate back into place. Good Luck

We removed the front panel by using a screwdriver underneath the panel to push three little tabs up to unlock the panel. Next we removed the mother board. Removed the old solenoid and put the new one on. It was very easy. We cleaned all he parts that were covered with mildew (yuck) and reassembeled all the parts. Very glad we found this source to do it ourselves. Will order more parts if needed from PartSelect.com

My son repaired the ice maker so my report will not be valid other than the service was as good as it gets.

Pulled off fountain face plate. Removed four screws holding the plate in front of solenoid. Disconnected solenoid wires away from electronic board. Removed three screws holding solenoid arm.

Took about fifteen mins. to remove the three screws and slip out the solenoid and replace it. Only one electrical connection. Super easy to do. Unfortunately this did nothing to solve the problem. I still have no water. Nor did replacing the switch or the water valve solve the problem. I guess I'm done.

I replaced ice dispenser solenoid which stuck due to the moisture causing it to rust I do recommend changing the rubber door flap also which allows the cold air to leak out therefore causing the solenoid to form rust

Turned power off at breaker. Took off front panel on the door. Unscrewed the panel where the electrical parts were plugged in. Then you could unscrew the old solenoid assembly and install the new one. Cleaned around the Ice shute since some mold was there. Put all back together. We watched the video from you tube about 5 times!!