XSS23GGKNCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced rusted solenoid.

Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.

Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.

As a female DIY, I found the job easy enough and the only difficulty was the correct tool to remove the two screws. It is NOT a "usual type" screw like a Philips or flat blade.. I believe the correct name is a Torx screwdriver, so check out the screw first before starting the job. There are two screws holding the runner, one at the front and another at the back. Mine was at the back where the rail had broken.
When you have the correct screwdriver then you are ready to begin.

1. Remove the ice container.
2. Remove the top shelf that sits above the ice container., it slides out.
3. Turn off the electric switch on the back upper left corner which stops the ice cubes being formed. (Just like a regular light switch)
4. The broken rail is exposed, and the two screws are visible one at the front that in my case was okay, and the other at the back holding the other screw was where the plastic rail had broken.
5. You will need to get your head right inside the freezer to be able to visualize where the screw is fitted in but it was easy to remove once you can see it, and then unscrew the front one.
6. I learned from experience of trying to screw in the back one first that it is a fiddling job and needs small hands, otherwise you might lose the screw, been there and did that! So I chose to screw the front one in sort of lose which was much easier for lining up the hole and the back screw, then I tightened them both up sufficiently secure not to break the plastic.
7. Before you hasten to whip all the things back in the fridge, TURN on the ice maker switch - top left that was previously turned off, otherwise you will have to remove the top shelf again because it hides that switch. Once done put your shelf back and then the ice drawer and all is good to go.
8. Mine is working great now, just need to be careful if you lift the drawer in and out to remember it is only plastic.
The job was easy and the only exception would be finding the correct screw driver first before starting the job, otherwise just a few minutes work to change the rail.

Remove control panel.
Remove four screw in control panel bracket.
Remove to bottom screws at bottom of solinid loose top screw.
Replace all screws.

All you need is model number. Great site for whatever your looking for.
I've even looked up fishing reel parts!

I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.

Unplug the refrigerator. Gently pry old switch out with screw driver. Move wires to connector on new switch with needle nose pliers. Pop it back into the hole. Plug back in. Peek inside to see the lights working.

with a philips screw driver and that's all it was that easy

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.

Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.

We had problems with the ice dispenser chute building up frost from condensation freezing due to the flap not closing properly. It would clog up completely and often. I had already replaced the flap and spring years ago but it didn't help much. I Googled this problem for my model and found a video detailing how to check and change the solenoid. Sure enough, the solenoid was completely corroded and crumbled in my hands as I removed it. I ordered the replacement part and made the repair myself. The video was perfect in describing. If your refrigerator is well used as ours is, you'll be shocked by the buildup and cleaning that will be necessary as you make this repair. I ended up taking much more of the dispensing assembly apart so I could clean it with warm soapy bleach water. Be mindful as you disassemble or take photos / videos with your smartphone to help put it back together. It took longer to clean than replace the solenoid. Also, be careful if you have an island or other cabinetry close by. If you have to pull the refrigerator out to unplug it, the handles can chip granite edges or the top corners can scratch wood work. We have cherry cabinets that surround ours. I chipped the edge of the granite when I pulled it out and I scratched the wood as I pushed it back in place. Minor repairs but can save you some frustration. Good luck!

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

just watch video simple

Turned water supply off; pressed dispenser sw to release presure ; cut tubing holding reservoir ; nuit driver to release screw holding reservoir and pulled out ; took outside and used hose nozzle to try to clear; did not clear at first then took weedeater string and disloged something and water flowed freely; turned out had to change waer solenoid valve (both) as the one for the water dispener was also plugged which did not show up before.
P.S. Had back flow water thru system before and changes of parts. Water flowed freely.