XSS23GGKNCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

I thought this was my problem as this part causes 90% of the no water issue. However, replacing this part did not fix my problem. I suggest that you test the valve first by disconnecting the water feed from the filter and running the line into a bucket. Once disconnected press the water on the freezer door and see if water comes out.
Other than that, this part is easy to install. Take off the plastic in front of the filter, remover the retaining screws. Remove lower cover in back of the refrigerator, Remove 1 screw securing the valve, remove cover where tubes enter the refrigerator. Take off tubes from valve (be sure to note what is inlet and outlet) and feed back into refrigerator. Be sure to save the putty when the new one is installed.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!

repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes

I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.