GCG21IEMAFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

I removed the screws out of the hinge while my wife put pressure on the door to hold it in place. I removed the hinge, replaced it with a new one, and screwed it back in place. Took just a couple of minutes. Easy and fast. The refrigerator was not leveled properly and that was why the door had swung back so fast, with enough force to eventually bend the hinge. I contacted geappliances.custhelp.com and used the chat option to speak to someone about how to lower the back wheels. They were extremely helpful in walking me through it. Now the refrigerator is leveled, and the door, when opened, will not swing back and contact the hinge. My overall experience in fixing this problem, from locating and ordering the correct part, to installing it, and then fixing the problem that led to the hinge being damaged in the first place, was outstanding.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

look at how the unit was put together and disassemled it pice by piece and labeled parts as i took them of in order then reversed when i reassembled

Removed the plastic frame by pushing to the inside (all 4 sides), removed touch pad by sliding it to my right and disconnected the wires. Removed the four screws that hold the dispensing unit and replaced broken parts. Please note that I also replaced the funnel. Total cost of repair for DIY $30.00, savings by avoiding repair man, priceless.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

pulled out broken bucket and auger assy. and slid in the replacement. works great so far. The easiest part was ordering the part and it didn't take very long at all to get it. Customer Service was very good at getting the job done. Thanks

It was a simple remove and replace. The new part fits directly in place of the old part. Its a pain to remove the light but once you get the light out the job is simple. The light must be pried out gently. It is snapped in place toward the air inlet cover and needs to be pried loose. Once the light is out there are 4 screws holding the air inlet cover in place. Remove the 4 screws and unfasten the wiring harness. Once the screws and wiring harness are disconnected remove the old part. Reinstall the new part in reverse order.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix