RSK25LCMJCCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

Taken longer to remove food out of refrigerator than replacing the part. Easy

You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.

This was generally an easy fix. The work was in such a confined area of our side by side and my husbands shoulders are broad so that was a little more challenging but overall a quick, easy and cheap repair doing it ourselves without having to call a appliance repairman.

Disconnected the refrigerator for a few hours. On back of frezer compartment unscrew 4 screw to get access to Old defrost thermostat (D. T.). I cut the two wires with pliyers atached to D. T. Peel them about one inch both the old and new D. T. With plyier. Color coded put them together. I used those electrical cap wires to attach them toguether an electrical tape around it to prevent any moisture. Now working like new. Expend approximately $25. And 20 minutes of my time. (I was being charged for the repair. $250.) Now is working like new. Thanks

Used nut cracker to take out 2screws. Had to take one screw from icemaker, raise it up slightly to get nutcracker accessibility. Price of cake. Ofelder

i did not buy any part from you company. you do not state what it was i bought. i purchase a lot of items on line and they always tell me what the item is.

After unplugging the refrigerator-freezer and emptying out the contents I snipped off the refrigerator thermistor, stripped off the wire insulation and used a butt splice. That did not solve the problem. So, a day later I unplugged the refrigerator again, transferred the freezer contents to a newly purchased small freezer unit, took off the back panel inside the freezer portion, and saw a large amount of ice build-up on the silver coils inside. This ice was quickly melted off using a hair dryer and packing towels below this accumulated ice. Then I snipped off the two freezer thermister sensors and the defrost sensor. I soldered the wires together for a hard splice, wrapped the individual wires with rubber electrical tape, and then wrapped that with plastic electrical tape. After re-assembly, the refrigerator-freezer has been working flawlessly for over a week at optimal temperatures.

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

Must have spent 10+ hours solid looking up info on the internet. Our ice maker had broken years ago, the door flap had broken years ago and I thought this was the end of a fridge after just 6 years 8 months.

GE offered a "broken appliance" warranty for $379 for one year, with no guarantee that when a technician came to look at it, the repairs would be covered by the warranty!!! No thank you, you just want me to buy a new fridge. Okay, challenge on, I'll fix it myself.

I took everything from the back of the freezer out. Spent an hour defrosting (note: use hair dryer next time). Ruled out a motherboard problem (even though it appears I have the old style motherboard), removed dust build up from fan intake. I could not get the heater to come on, so I cut off the thermostat defroster and connected the wires together. The only way to get the heater on was to set the freezer control to 0 / zero.

So, ordered part from partselect.com and it arrived the next day!!!. Installed and unit appears to be defrosting okay after a week.

So now I'm back to order the ice maker part. The door flap will wait for another time.

Note: I've put in the time for novices and recognizing how the freezer is constructed.

Time includes taking everything out of the freezer section, unscrewing everything, diagnosing problem, fixing the problem, putting everything back. I would say allow 3-4 hours and pat yourself on the back if you do it quicker.

Note#2, if you have a large build up there is a hole in the floor of the freezer section. If the water does not evaporate it will run out of the hole and into your wooden floors! Place towels both inside and outside the unit just in case!

The video was very helpful as the fridge used was close in configuration to ours. Only difficulty was installing the light tray assembly which on ours is two piece, a U shaped plastic tray into which the light assembly/electrical harness is attached. Re assembly was tricky as the plastic tray was flimsy and the light assembly kept coming out. Needed two pairs of hands but not enough room. The problem was solved by using blue tape to keep the complete assembly together, then gently removing it after the 4 mounting screws were in place. After that all went smoothly. Turns out the old damper assembly was broken. Since then the fridge has been working normally with set temp. of 37 holding steady and freezer at 0, per GE recommendations. Good fix!!

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

After turning off power and unthawing back cover so I could remove it. Then I had remove all of the ice from the coils with a hair dryer. After everything was unthawed I removed the temperature sensor from the coil tubing and cut the wires. I skinned the wires on the new sensor and crimped a butt splice on each wire. I skinned each wire in the freezer then crimped butt splices to each wire. After taping the connections with black tape I reinstalled the back cover and turned on the power. So far it has been two weeks and there Is no frost and the refridgerator is working fine.

This part worked marvelously. I followed a YouTube video to completion. Essentially, I removed the water filter cover by squeezing the tabs on the side. Then, I removed the housing for the light based on the tabs placement. I unscrewed the lighting fixture, unplugged and set aside. After that, I removed the bottom part of the damper assembly (that's not included but virtually attached to the damper) by pulling on its tabs' placements. Then, I pulled off the damper assembly, unplugged the cords and added the new assembly WITH the inclusion of the damper gasket assembly that doesn't seem to have been a part of the old assembly. Rescrewed and reattached everything and now the fridge is as good as new!!!