TFXB27FEABK General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cardboard cover, vacuumed lint from coils and equipment area. Removed dual valves and labeled the four electrical leads with masking tape. Cut off the end of water lines to dispenser and ice maker to remove threaded connections (New are simply push on). The water leads are of different diameters, so there is no confusion.
Decided to replace water line at the same time so bought a plastic replacement for less than $10, removed old copper line and replaced it with new. (Original plumber used a custom made line with a smaller diameter and this may have contributed to the low flow).
Connected all lines and wires (had to use adapter supplied with valve for two of the leads which are of different connector widths than original) and secured valve and back panel. Had to bedn the valve mounting plate somewhat to allow it to fit (this is also a little different from the original).
After installation, it takes a little time to refill the lines until proper flow is established both at the dispenser and the icemaker.
Replacing the Helix took completely disassembling the ice drawer, Take your tiime in doing this as there are many parts that fit in only one precise way. This helix replacement took about 20 minutes total.

My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.

I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should.

The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pulling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)

UNPLUG UNIT. Open freezer compartment, top door. You may want to let it warm up a bit before beginning work. Next remove single screw from small square plastic grate at top left back of freezer compartment with phillips screw driver. Remove green ground wire connection behind removed grate with nut driver. Next remove 2 screws at top of freezer compartment holding plastic air diffuser bracket in place and holding back panel. Remove metal back panel of freezer by pulling top towards you, then angle out of compartment. Evap. fan is now exposed. I inspected and removed fan by removing two screws with nutdriver on bracket behind fan blade. I inserted nutdriver (with long socket driver)between fan blades to screws on bracket behind blade - 1 each side. After these two screws are removed, pull fan and bracket assembly out from plenum. Remove wiring from motor and remove motor to workbench. Remove round metal clamp from fan hub with needle nose pliers and slide off fan blade from motor. Also remove bracket and rubber bushing. Disgard old motor. Inspect and clean blade. Replace if necessary. Reattach rubber bushing, bracket THEN fan blade to new motor. New fan has atleast one terminal in new location and I had to use one wire extension that came with kit. Route wire behind motor and plug in new wires to back of motor. Insert fan and bracket to plenum, hold in place with one hand while reattaching screws with nutdriver between fan blades. Once fan is in place and nuts secure, I tested operation by plugging unit back in to make sure new motor ran and fan spun freely. Reattach back panel, top diffuser bracket and small grate with 3 screws. Shut door, set temp. and wait 24 hours before loading freezer. Unit good as new!

This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.

disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.

removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

At first it appeared all was lost since the sales and sevice facility said parts for our GE refrigerator were no longer avalible. We were looking at a $1200 dollar purchase. We decided however to research the internet and see if parts could be obtained. We found Parts Select and to our suprise parts were readily available. We order the drawer side rails and received them within days. The repairs were completed in minutes and for less the twenty bucks.
Steven