TPX24BRBAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should.

The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pulling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)

disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

- Disconnect the valve assembly and remove electrical connection to water dispenser valve to prevent accidental water discharge

- Disconnect tubing from valve assembly, remove and keep compression nut.

-Disconnect tubing from junction to door tube remove and keep compression nut

-Remove screws used to mount reservoir, pull tubing into main refrigerator compartment and remove old reservoir and tubing.

- Note that one of the tubes on the new reservoir is 2' too short.

- Go to hardware store to purchase 5/16" universal tubing compression junction.

- Install reservoir and feed tubing through holes in main refrigerator compartment.

- Route tubing through woven tubing protectors and clips.

- Trim tubing to length and install in valve using old compression nut.

- Splice the piece of tubing trimmed from supply side of reservoir to the outlet side tube using the fitting purchased from the hardware store.

- Connect end of tubing to existing junction using old compression nut.

- Re-connect wires to valve solonoid and test for leaks.

- Re-install valve assembly to refrigerator frame.

I followed the directions of Steve on the installation video. He makes it easy to do the repair with his step by step description of the installation. I have repaired three different aging appliances with help of Steve and PartSelect's very helpful Customer Service.
I wish Steve a wonderful retirement and hope PartSelect can find someone as easy to follow for future videos. The videos are priceless for the repairs.

This was a very easy fix. I cut the water lines at the reservoir, coupled the old lines to the new lines with two plastic barbed fittings used for outdoor drip irrigation. All I had to do was pull the old lines out and the new lines followed. Easy as pie!