EF36IWFSSS1 Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Prior to ordering I removed freezer panel and checked for ice build up and fan functionality. Then removed rear panel cleaned lint from everything pulled front panel vacuumed out the condenser. Plugged back in and all seems to work with the exception of compressor. I have a little experience so googled in model number and your site popped up. I looked up part and the site gave me a percentage loved that. I ordered wish I would have rushed shipping as took about 10 days. Installed in less than 30 minutes and all runs great ??

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

I easily ordered the part. When it came in, I just shut off the water, disconnected the electricity, and followed instructions to remove shelving and drawers. Then removed the rear interior cover, removed the old water inlet valve and installed the new one. Just a couple moldex wire connections and the 3 water lines in and out. Don't know if this is still ok, but so simple a caveman could do it. Sorry Geico.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Replaced water/ice maker inlet valve from video instructions from Just Answer. The inlet tube for the water dispenser would not cede in the valve and this created a leak problem from the water dispenser connection. Called repair tech and he could not get the line to cede correctly in the inlet valve. Am going to request a replacement part. This has been very frustrating!

Looked online for instructions. I had to remove the shelves from inside the frig, then pop off part of the right inside back wall. The way the 3 water lines attached to the inlet valve was a terrible design. There are plastic little collars that need to be pushed back to release the water lines from the old valve, then when you install the new valve, you need to push them back to reattach the water lines. Once installed, one had a leak. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the little plastic collar to disengage. I couldn't push the line in further and I couldn't get it back out. Ended up cutting the line off at the valve just to get it out. Then had to cut out the piece that was still stuck in the valve. Tried to install it again and it leaked even more. Ended up putting the old valve back in and throwing away the $130 new inlet valve because there are no returns on electrical parts. Total waste of time and money ! ! ! Not happy to say the least.

stick the very small screw driver in the hole on the left side cover and lift up to release the keeper tab,pull out to expose the wire connecter.insert the small screw driver in the slot on the left side to release the tab while pulling apart the two connectors.tuck the wires tight to side and pull out the ice maker.I thought I was getting the whole ice maker assembly,but just got a part of it,so I had take it apart and put it back together.the hardest thing to change over was the stop lever arm that senses the level of ice in the bin.after all this,it didn't work at all.not happy around here.back to filling ice trays

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Removed the whole ice maker unplug one wire harness replaced ice tray with new one.
Very simple.

Removed two screws on outer face plate and set aside the face plate after disconnecting from power supply. Remove dispenser paddle which had broken and replaced with new part. Reattached power connections and reattached the face plate. Relatively easy process.

I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.